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Climbing Harness

Your harness is the contact point between you, the rope, and the belayer. If you fall, it distributes the impact force through your body and prevents injury.

Climbing harnesses come in three basic styles:

seat harness
chest harness
full body harness

Seat Harnesses

For gyms, cragging, and sport climbing, this is the most popular design. Their advantage is that the force of a lead fall is transferred directly through the thighs and is borne by the strongest muscle group of the human body: the legs.

A harness with fixed leg loops is perfect for gyms and cragging. On longer routes you may want a thicker, more padded harness for comfort, and extra gear loops for racking. A fully adjustable harness offers a customized fit and can accommodate bulky insulated clothing for ice and alpine climbs.

Chest Harnesses

Used for high alpine climbing on both rock and ice, ski mountaineering, glacier travel, expedition, and mountain rescue. In these extreme settings a chest harness prevents an injured or unconscious climber from hanging upside down. A chest harness is not designed to endure the impact of a fall. Its primary function is to keep a fallen climber upright. A chest harness must always be used in combination with a seat harness.

There is some concern about the potential for whiplash when using a chest harness to arrest a falling climber. When travelling on steep snow fields or glaciers, there is also the possibility that a climber who is catching a fall could be pulled down face first, as opposed to waist first, making it difficult to self-arrest.

Full Body Harnesses

These are one-piece units that combine the features of a seat harness and a chest harness. Like a seat/chest combo, a full body harness prevents a climber from tipping backwards. This aids rescue and reduces the potential of impact-related spinal injuries.

A full body harness is typically used in mountaineering situations where a climber wears a heavy pack. Like a seat harness, it should be comfortable to walk in and provide unrestricted freedom of movement.

Materials and Construction

Webbing used for harnesses is made of flat nylon that is strategically bar-tacked (a super-strong industrial method of stitching material together) at contact points and load bearing surfaces.

Buckles tend to be made from carbon steel or aluminum. Consult the manual before using your harness. Most buckles need to be doubled-back in order to be safely secured, others have an auto-locking closure. Always double-check yourself and your partner when you first start climbing and any time you've put harness back on if you remove it during the day. Many climbers have been hurt or killed because they failed to properly secure and check their harness.

The Belay Loop is the circle of nylon webbing in the front and centre of the harness. This loop is where you attach the belay device. When arresting a fall or rappelling, the belay loop bears the bulk of the load. Like carabiners, the belay loop is tested and given a strength rating measured in kN. The nylon webbing is incredibly strong and will withstand loads in excess of several thousand pounds. That, said, you should examine it regularly for signs of wear and abrasion.

Although it's possible to tie in to the belay loop, most manufacturers recommend that you thread the rope through the leg and waist, areas that are padded to prevent abrasion. Always follow the manufacturer's directions for tying in and belaying.