Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing

Mountaineering can include many, or all, of the facets of rock climbing, camping, and trekking. Trips can range from an extended expedition on a distant spire to an afternoon scramble up a local peak.

What's it About?

Not all mountain routes require you to ascend steep, technical rock faces. Mountaineering may involve scrambling up low-angle rock or trudging up snowfields, roped to your partners. There are hundreds, if not thousands of mountains that can be climbed on a sunny weekend without technical climbing knowledge, experience, or appreciable risk. That being said, there are also mountains that require advanced climbing skills, gear, knowledge, and experience to summit and descend safely. Mountaineering can call upon your navigational abilities, weather forecasting skills, first aid experience, and ability to work as part of a team.

Route Ratings

Mountain routes are rated with what is called a commitment grade. This rating assesses the distance covered and the time needed as well as the technical difficulty and objective hazards on the route. These mountaineering grades are usually written as a Roman numeral from I to VI. A route with a grade of I is described as easy, while a route that rates a VI is considered extremely difficult and is only attempted by the most accomplished mountaineers during the best conditions.

Pitches that require technical climbing are rated like traditional climbs, on a scale from 5.0 to 5.15. But a solid 5.10 climber on a sunny well-climbed route at their local crag will be in for a major shock in the mountains. Climbing in dicey conditions wearing a jacket and carrying a big pack will set even the most seasoned vet back a few grade points. Don't forget, route ratings don't take into account loose or wet rock, verglas, snow-packed ledges, or any of the other million-and-one unforeseen challenges alpine climbing delivers.

Gear You Need

Mountaineering forays can be very gear intensive. For an overnight trip you will need a full contingent of camping equipment (good-quality backpack, tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, stove, food and so on). Trips may begin in a hot, sun-scorched valley and continue up to cold, windy glaciers, so you must plan and dress accordingly.

Technical gear requirements for mountaineering can be even more intense. You may be crossing glaciers and steep snowfields that require harness, rope, ice axe, crampons, and crevasse rescue equipment. Routes involving extended steep pitches (whether snow or rock) may require a carefully selected rack of rock pro, ice-screws, and snow pickets. It is crucial that you know where you're going and what you'll need. Mountaineering is a delicate balance between speed and safety. Too much gear and you risk getting fatigued and frustrated. Too little equipment and you may be exposing yourself to undo risk.

The rules of engagement change in the mountains. The goal is to get up, get down, and get away. Don't forget that mountains are big, unpredictable, and unforgiving.