Sport Climbing

In the early 1970s, a group of French climbers began using bolts as a way to make difficult and dangerous climbs safer. So, sport climbing was born – climbing for the pure enjoyment of movement and ascent, free from the mental burden of placing traditional protection.

Placing bolts opened hundreds of routes that had never been climbed because they could not be protected by traditional means. Rock faces that had been considered "impossible" were suddenly transformed into playgrounds for strong climbers.

What’s a Sport Route?

Today, fully bolted sport climbs can range from half-pitch routes lacing the bottom of a cliff to epic multi-pitch marathons in full alpine settings. Sport routes are characterized by pre-placed bolts at intervals on a route. As a climber ascends, they clip a quickdraw (a sling with a carabiner on both ends) into the bolt and then clip the rope into the quickdraw.

Most sport climbs are relatively short (30 metres or less) and pumpy (steep and tiring). The climbs are focussed on style, power, and fluidity. Climbers also tend to "project" routes – try them again and again until they are successful.

In North America, the sport climbing routes are graded like traditional climbs. They start at 5.0 (similar to a very steep ladder) and progress in difficulty all the way up to 5.15 (think, smooth overhanging cliff).

Why Sport Climbing?

The appeal of sport climbing is that the risk of a serious fall is mitigated by reliable and consistent protection. Bolstered by the confidence of the bolted protection, sport climbers often take multiple whippers (big falls) on the same move in an effort to send (complete) the route.

New and developing climbers tend to gravitate towards sport climbing because it offers the thrill of lead climbing without the technique and experience required to place traditional protection. More experienced climbers also like sport climbing because it allows them to push their ability in a controlled and predictable environment.

Gear You Need

Mandatory items for sport climbing are shoes, harness, rope, a belay device, a few locking carabiners, quickdraws, and some slings.

Harness
It's your point of contact with the rope. The type of harness you select depends on the styles of climbing you'll be doing.

Read more about Climbing Harnesses for advice on choosing and fitting a harness.

Rope
If you're thinking of buying a new rope for sport climbing, consider a 60 (or even 70-metre) rope with a sub 10.5mm diameter. The added length ensures that you can lower your buddies off a long route without running out of rope. The smaller diameter reduces weight and rope drag making it easier to "clip" when you're "pumped" high off the deck.

See Climbing Ropes for information about types of ropes.

Belay Device
The primary function of a belay device is to provide enough friction to enable the belayer to lock off the rope. Many sport climbers use a belay device called a Gri-Gri. This device has an auto-locking cam that helps lock off the rope. More importantly, it makes it easier and safer for smaller people to belay larger climbers. Note: A Gri-Gri takes instruction and practice to use safely and correctly.

See About Belay Devices for more information.

Carabiners, Quickdraws and Slings
Your points of contact with the rock. You need to carry enough to clip every bolt, clip in at the top, and construct a safe top-rope anchor if necessary. Never hurts to carry a few extra too, in case you drop one while you fumble for a clip.

See our Carabiner article to help choose.

Important Extras
A tarp to keep the rope organized and out of the dirt. And, rare among sport climbers, a helmet.

Read about Climbing Helmets for information about protecting your grey matter.

After that, all you need is a partner who is as excited as you to be out there, and "send it dude" you're a sport climber!