Traditional Climbing

Traditional (trad) climbing involves scaling rock while placing removable metal gizmos (designed to arrest a fall) into the rock's natural features. What separates traditional climbing from other disciplines, such as bouldering and sport climbing, is the need to place, and depend on, your own protection.

Gear You Need

Traditional climbing is rather gear intensive. As well as the mandatory items used for other sport climbs trad climbers carry a "rack" that includes pieces of pro, slings of varying lengths, and extra biners. The rack is carried on a sling over the climber's shoulder or clipped to the gear loops on the harness.

Protection, "pro," or simply, "gear" refers to the various metal devices that get stuffed and wedged into cracks and holes in the rock. These devices are then attached to the rope with a carabiner. The combination of protection, rope, and belayer catches a lead climber in the event of a fall. When the lead climber reaches the top, either the belayer climbs up and cleans (removes) the protection, or the leader lowers off and retrieves the gear on the way down.

To learm more about these gadgets, read about Active Pro (cams) and Passive Pro (nuts, hexes, tri cams).

Routes – Does it Go?

Because traditional climbers are responsible for placing their own protection they are free to climb any crag, cliff, or mountain they deem worthy and feasible. Trad climbs can range from short blasts up single-pitch cliffs, to multi-day, multi-pitch wanderings over larger faces. The vast majority of routes are established and have been done before.

Most of the hardest routes in the world (currently rated 5.15) are sport climbs, but as the gear continually improves and climbers push the limits, the difficulty level of trad climbs increases. Dozens of routes and rock faces that were considered impossible or only done as aid climbs are "going free" every year.

Skills You Need

Placing protection during a climb increases the level of physical and mental intensity involved. Finding areas of solid rock where pro will fit requires experience and judgement. Selecting the best piece to go into that spot requires skill and can take some time. Climbers who are pushing their limits must possess the strength and physical fitness required to hang out there, and the cool head needed to think calmly and clearly under pressure.

Learning to place gear is intimidating. If you are thinking about starting to lead trad climbs, consider taking a course. Many climbing schools offer excellent courses that will teach you the skills you need to stay safe. Additionally, one of the best ways to learn is on top-rope. Set up a "trad lab" where your partner, an experienced climber, leaves protection for you to examine. Then practice placing pro while you're still enjoying the safety of a top-rope.