May 30, 2024
Found in “Gear, Activities”
Your climbing shoes are your most important piece of climbing gear. They form the foundation of your kit and are a necessity for every discipline within climbing. When choosing climbing shoes, whether they’re your first pair or your seventeenth, consider the fit, function, and performance. Those are the three things I thought about when reviewing the shoes in MEC's climbing assortment.
Climbing shoe fit
Shoes should fit snugly all around your foot, allowing no movement within the shoe and no air spaces or pockets. Read more about How to choose climbing shoes. They shouldn’t be so tight that you have hot spots or significant pain, but keep in mind that a snug fit is a precision fit. As climbers, we drive lots of power through our feet, and a precision fit helps harness that power.
Modern climbing shoes won’t stretch much, especially if they’re lined, but you can expect them to break in and feel 1/3 up to 1/2 size bigger as they mould to your foot. Every shoe brand’s sizing fits a little differently though, so whenever possible, try before you buy!
The shape of your foot and the shape of a shoe need to be in sync for a perfect fit. Most shoes are offered in a high-volume (men’s) option and a low-volume (women's ) option. A shoe built on a low-volume last is usually narrower, with a lower cut, slimmer heel and less volume around the top of the foot.
Function and performance
Climbing shoes are designed and refined for different types of climbing. The shape affects not just the fit, but the way a shoe performs. It’s important to select the right shoe to suit the climbing you do and the stage you’re at in your climbing progress.
A flat-lasted, more symmetrical shoe will be more comfortable for beginners or climbers looking for an all-day shoe. They often have better support for edging and vertical climbing, a full outsole, a supportive midsole, and a lace closure. Laces let you ease the fit and you can modify the fit throughout a long day.
Top picks for multi-pitch and all-day comfort
La Sportiva Finale
A fantastic and popular all-around shoe that prioritizes comfort for long days on the wall or at the gym. The shoes provide great support on a neutral, comfortable last, with a durable 5mm outsole. Laces enable a precise, yet adjustable fit.
Tenaya Tanta
New to MEC as of November 2023 and proving to be a comfortable, easy-fitting shoe. Tenaya has a great reputation for out-of-the-box comfort, with an adaptable last that works for many foot shapes. It provides good support for staying on your feet over the course of long climbs, with some additional rubber coverage over the top that expands the shoe’s possibilities.
Scarpa Helix
The Helix is a great precision shoe for long days on the rock. The laces allow for optimal fit adjustments and the supportive outsole and neutral last make it a great choice for smearing, edging, and even toeing into cracks. With a 3.5mm outsole, the shoe retains the sensitivity that most climbers are looking for.
Top picks for trad climbing
We have some great trad climbing shoes in the assortment, specialized for toeing in cracks, protecting ankles, and smearing on slabs. Trad climbing shoes typically have a full outsole and are built on a neutral to moderate shaped last.
La Sportiva TC Pro
As the number one trad climbing shoe on the market, the TC Pro sets the standard for long-lasting precision. This stiff and supportive lace-up shoe was designed with some asymmetry and La Sportiva’s P3 tensioning system that directs power over the toes for edging. Rubber protection over the pinky toe and good ankle coverage are perfect for jamming in cracks of all sizes.
Scarpa Generator Mid & Generator V
A shoe made for smearing, edging and jamming. The supportive Generator Mid balances stiffness with flexibility, and the tri-tension rand keeps power through the toes. New for 2024 is the Generator V, a unique low-cut version of the Generator with hook-and-loop closures specialized for long multi-pitch routes and thin, technical cracks.
Top picks for bouldering and sport climbing
The rise in bouldering and competition-style indoor climbing and hard sport climbing demands a lot from our footwear. Climbing brands are rising to the occasion to bring us more rubber, more camber, and more options for sensitivity.
These shoes are characterized by a performance, tensioned fit, and often are sensitive. Look for Vibram XS Grip rubber on a lot of these models. Bouldering shoes are typically Velcro, slipper, or a combo of the two. This allows for quick on and off and a snug, glove-like fit. You’ll also see an abundance of rubber on these shoes, which allows for utilization of the entire foot in climbing. You’re not just smearing or edging, you’re toe hooking and heel hooking.
Scarpa Instinct VS & VSR
Sensitive performance shoe with an aggressive downturn and medium asymmetry and stiffness. The Instincts offer a slipper-like fit with a hook-and-loop closure for added precision. With great rubber coverage, this shoe excels at toe hooking and heel hooking. Available in VS (XS Edge) and VSR (XS Grip2) rubber options. (These shoes are my personal favourite.)
La Sportiva Solution
A classic sport climbing and bouldering weapon with one of the pointiest and grabbiest toes on the market. La Sportiva’s P3 rand maintains the downturned shape of the shoe and doesn’t compromise on performance over time. This shoe is aggressive with high asymmetry, lots of rubber coverage and a unique moulded 3D heel cup.
Scarpa Drago
A bouldering weapon that continues to rise in popularity, offered in a regular and low-volume version. The Drago is an aggressively downturned and asymmetrical climbing shoe that performs in steep terrain. The shoe has great sensitivity and is perfect for grabbing all sorts of holds with your heels and toes.
La Sportiva Theory
This bouldering and steep climbing shoe is powerfully aggressive yet super-soft and sticky. The shoe looks almost dipped in rubber – it is sticky all over, flexible and perfect for pulling and pushing off all sorts of terrain and holds. The hybrid No Edge technology makes it especially suited to maintaining surface area on gym volumes.
Top entry-level picks for modern gym climbing
With the rise of modern climbing gyms, we’ve come to recognize as a climbing community, that performance can’t just be limited to a top-tier shoe. Climbers are accessing way more terrain angles and progressing more quickly, so entry-level shoes are answering the call for more rubber and better power.
Scarpa Origin VS
New member of Scarpa’s shoe family for 2024 with new boulderers in mind. This neutral and supportive shoe is great for new climbers but comes with design features that can meet the demands of a modern bouldering gym. Sticky S72 rubber underfoot, large toe patch and full coverage heel prepare you for all kinds of interesting terrain challenges. Padded tongue, low asymmetry, and full outsole keep comfort a priority.
La Sportiva Tarantula Boulder
The newest member of La Sportiva’s popular, comfort-driven Tarantula family. The Tarantula Boulder is perfect for new climbers looking to focus primarily on bouldering. Extra rubber coverage on both heel and toe aid performance in steeper terrain where heel hooking and toe hooking are more common. Sticky FriXion RS rubber works great both indoors and out.
Scarpa Reflex VS
Brand new 2024 model built with comfort in mind. This is a perfect shoe when picking up climbing. Supportive and comfortable with a durable outsole and soft suede upper make the fit easy. This is a great starter shoe that won’t break the bank. Great for both indoor and outdoor climbing.
Scarpa Veloce
The Veloce is hardly a beginner shoe but is a worthy mention for indoor gym climbers of any ability. A slightly wider toe box than most high-performance models provides excellent comfort, with a last shape that is still downturned and soft. The outsole is a particularly soft and sticky S72 rubber, which makes these an excellent indoor shoe for sticking to volumes, climbing on the board, and training. The shoe now comes in a lace-up version as well.
Special mention: top mid-range performers
In a direct answer to the performance requirements needed in an all-around or mid-level shoe, the all-around shoe options are getting better and better each year as well. Here’s a mix of tried and tested models and new shoes on the block for 2024.
Scarpa Arpia
Brand new this spring, these moderately downturned shoes tackle the balance between performance and comfort. Sticky XS Grip rubber underfoot with a generous rubber toe patch enables most of the footwork that can take your climbing to the next level. Comes in a regular and low-volume fit.
Scarpa Vapor V
Classic performance shoe with a moderate downturn, moderate asymmetry and moderate stiffness. These shoes are masters of smearing and edging and provide excellent underfoot support thanks to the slightly stiff midsole. Great for all climbing disciplines.
La Sportiva Kubo
These comfortable workhorses are a fantastic second shoe, with just enough asymmetry and downturn to tackle technical and steep terrain while still providing long-day comfort. They are a do-it-all specialist, with good underfoot support for route climbing and design features such as a large toe rubber patch that won’t hold you back in bouldering either.
There are so many fantastic climbing shoes on the market, it can be hard to decide what’s the best choice. Many climbers opt for an all-around option, supplemented with a couple pairs of targeted specialty shoes. Others find exactly what they like and stick with the same model forever. The key thing is to figure out what brand and what last fits your foot. Comfort is key. From there, the function of the shoe and the performance you’re looking for will help narrow down the options. Happy climbing!
You can also check out other useful MEC resources when learning about rock climbing:
