February 3, 2025
Found in “Stories, Activities”
If you’re reading this, hello! My name is Emma, I’m an MEC Ambassador, rock climber and climbing instructor based in Montreal. I’ve been rock climbing outdoors for 12 years and have been ice climbing for a little over 2 years, now. I also own a climbing business, Climbing Escapes, where I teach both beginner climbers how to climb safely outdoors, and advanced techniques to help seasoned climbers progress on their climbing journey.
A few years ago, I fell in love with ice climbing. For those who might be new to the sport - it is similar to rock climbing, except you ascend an ice formation, like a pillar or an ice drip, using tools like an ice axe and crampons instead of chalked hands and climbing shoes. I got into ice climbing during the pandemic when travel restrictions made it impossible to travel to warm, sunny crags. I was not a big fan of winter growing up, but I wanted to take on a new sport so I had something outdoors to look forward to on those cold, snowy weekends in Quebec.
So, when some of my friends were going ice climbing at a local crag, I decided to tag along. They lent me some gear, including my first pair of hand-me-down La Sportiva mountaineering boots. That was a special moment for me - feeling like I was breaking new ground, and I was so excited about my new journey ahead.
They showed me some ice climbing techniques like how to place my ice axe and what colour ice to look for and although it was challenging and totally different from rock climbing, I was excited to be a beginner again and learn something new.
I remember watching another girl climbing next to me and thought “Wow she is such a badass.” I told myself that I wanted to climb like her one day. I knew right away that I had fallen in love with the sport.
After that first day out, I decided to gear up and spend every weekend ice climbing as much as possible, even the screaming barfies couldn’t keep me away (IYKYK). I would often set up the ropes for my friends and I, and I remember noticing how I was usually the only person of colour at the crag. Starting a new sport can be intimidating, even more so when you don’t see people who look like you in those spaces. Something clicked for me then that by getting more involved in the ice climbing community, I could help make every crag a more diverse and inclusive space for other aspiring ice climbers.
During my second season, I found out about a guiding opportunity for an intro to ice climbing event that Routes to Rootz (formerly HikeMTL) was organizing for people of colour. I volunteered to assist another instructor for that event and helped give ice climbing tips to the group. I felt empowered to be sharing some techniques with beginners, especially since I had just taken up a new activity myself. I knew how difficult and intimidating it was to start over as a beginner with a new activity, especially in ice climbing, which is a bit of a niche sport with a smaller community. Watching the participants try something challenging, seeing them reach the top and feeling pumped about it, brought some incredibly inspiring energy.
After climbing for 3 seasons, I felt ready for another challenge. I was talking to Caitlin, the Senior Community Manager at MEC who runs the MEC Ambassador program, about my dreams to one day become an ice climbing guide. She encouraged me to take a course to earn my lead climb certification so I could help people new to ice climbing get started in the sport. I didn't think I was ready, and honestly, I felt a little scared. I have to admit I had a bit of imposter syndrome since I didn’t have a ton of experience behind me to be lead climbing yet. But if there’s one thing climbing has taught me, it’s that sometimes self-doubt and fear are the only things standing between you and the climbing goals you thought were “impossible.” Proper training and the ability to recognize your limits are important on every route, but sometimes you need to push aside your nerves, trust your gut and go for it. You never know what goals you’ll reach or communities you’ll discover on the other side of self-doubt. And you never know who else is watching and feeling inspired – telling themselves that they want to climb like that one day.
When I arrived at the course, I was excited to find out that we would be a group of four women. Our instructor, Anouk, turned out to be that very same badass woman I had watched climb on my very first ice climbing outing. I was even more excited to learn, and felt comfortable to go at my own pace, knowing I was sharing this experience with other courageous women.
The course was informative and empowering. We learned how to place ice screws, build anchors, rappel and then practiced climbing on lead with a backup top rope. Honestly, it was really difficult and I needed a lot of practice, being a beginner again is not for the weak!
I was so impressed and inspired by the women there. Whether they had lots of experience ice climbing or were completely new to the sport, these women were pushing their boundaries and it had me thinking, if they can do it then so can I.
“This course gave me the confidence to continue in my ice climbing journey safely, to remember to believe in myself and the joy of allowing myself to be a beginner again.”
If ice climbing sounds like your next winter activity or if you’re on the hunt for great winter crags, check out some of my favourite spots to go ice climbing in Quebec, like Lac Mastigouche and Lac Sylvère. Before you strap on your crampons, always make sure you have the skillset and knowledge to ice climb. For your intro into the sport I really recommend you take a course (also a great way to meet fellow climbers!), read up on ice climbing tips and make sure you’re trained up on how to use your gear. Like all outdoor spaces, try to be careful to leave your climbing area even better than you found it by practicing your Leave No Trace principles. We want to preserve our outdoor spaces for future climbers to enjoy, too! If you do go out on your own, make sure you get a membership with Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l’Escalade to get access to local ice climbing areas — and always, always check conditions before you head out.
Emma’s top picks
Once you’re ready to get into the sport, here’s some ice climbing gear picks I don’t climb without:
Mammut 9.8 Crag Dry Rope: I like this rope because it has a thicker diameter, and most importantly, its Dry, meaning that its protective sheet allows for minimum absorption of water.
Petzl Nomic Ice Tool: I love the weight distribution on these tools. I first started out with the Nomics and even after a few seasons of ice climbing experience they are still my go-to tool.
Petzl Lynx Crampon: I love the precision on these crampons and how you can switch the bind system to accommodate different boots for different terrain.
Mammut Smart Belay Device: When you’re ice climbing, you want to avoid using a Grigri or any other passive belay device. A Mammut smart is a good option in-between an active and a passive device and offers that protection if ever the rope gets weighted and your hands slip from the rope.