A sleeping pad cushions you and keeps you warm as you sleep. Without a sleeping pad, the cold ground draws heat away from you in your sleeping bag and you experience a colder night’s sleep.
- What type should I get?
- What size is best?
- How much insulation do I need?
Simple foam pads are very inexpensive, durable (there is no risk of puncture) and relatively lightweight. They insulate well but can be bulky and don’t feel super-plush when you’re lying on them. Foams vary in quality, some are denser, some are designed to stay flexible in very cold temperatures and some are better at resisting abrasion and UV light.
For winter or cold-weather camping, adding a foam pad under an inflating pad increases the warmth and also gives you options if you want something to sit on at camp that won’t absorb moisture.
- Fast and light trips
- Camping directly on rough ground
- Winter camping or mountaineering
- Adding a layer below an air or self-inflating pad
Air filled pads
These lightweight pads offer a lot of comfort. Most have no insulation, but include heat-reflective materials and chambered constructions designed to hold warm air near your body. Their lack of insulation suits warm-weather camping. Many also include a system for inflating them. If you have several of these pads to inflate, it can be a time-consuming task.
- Ultralight backpacking and hiking
- Summer camping
- Car camping
More expensive than closed-cell foam pads, self-inflating pads insulate well and are still light and compact. Most contain open-cell foam, which is an excellent insulator when filled with air. Some include a layer of down or synthetic material, which adds warmth, but should be protected from water and dampness. As with any inflating pad, it is possible to puncture them or to develop a leak at the seams or the valve. Most include a repair kit, so you can fix them in the field, but you do have to carry the repair kit.
When inflating a foam-filled pad, it’s best to open the valve and allow the pad to self-inflate. Add a few breaths later if required, or use the included pump system, to prevent moisture from accumulating inside.
- Backpacking and hiking trips
- Canoe or car camping
- Winter camping
What size is best?
If you’re going to be backpacking, you’ll likely be exchanging some comfort for lightness and compactness. If you’re car camping or canoe tripping, you might go with a thicker and more comfortable pad.
- A shorter, ¾ length pad is designed to leave your feet on the ground. You can use your extra equipment, (a jacket or your pack) to put under your feet.
- Lots of backpacking pads taper toward the feet, which again makes them light and compact, but sleepers who shift in the night might find that tend to move off their pad too frequently.
- Thicker pads are generally warmer and offer more cushioning on rough ground, but are also heavier and larger when packed.
- If you’re above average height, you might want to choose a pad that extra-long so your feet don’t hang off the end.
How much insulation do I need?
The warmth of a sleeping pad is indicated by its R-value, a measure of a material’s resistance (R) to heat loss. Higher numbers indicate greater warmth.
If you’re snow camping, consider combining an inflatable pad with a closed-cell pad. Two pads provide better cushioning, insulation, and protection from accidental punctures. The combination will also help keep moisture away from your sleeping bag.
- For winter camping use a pad with an R-value of 4 or higher.
- Use a foam pad below your main pad to increase warmth.
Sleeping pad care and repair
After your trip, wipe down the pad with a damp cloth and mild soap. Let it air dry fully before storing.
Store your pad unrolled with the valve open.
If your sleeping pad is torn or the valve leaks, use a repair kit to patch the surface or replace the valve.
To find small leaks, use soap and water (it’s best to do this in the bathtub).
- Open the valve and let your pad inflate or blow a couple of breaths into it. Close the valve.
- Use your fingers to spread a small amount of dish soap mixed with water on the pad where you think it’s leaking. Squeeze it or fold it to force the air out and look for bubbles forming.
- Repeat for the other side. (If you don’t see any bubbles, you could try putting the whole pad under water to see if you can spot air coming out).
- Mark any leaks you find with a pen.
- Rinse the mattress and let it dry.
- Deflate it, close the valve and spread a bit of urethane glue over the leaks.
- Open the valve. As the mattress inflates, it will draw glue into the hole, making a long-lasting seal.
- Let the glue dry for at least 24 hours.