cross-country skiing

Cross-country (nordic) skis

Dynamic, fluid movement that takes you over rolling hills, frozen lakes, and frosty trails, cross country skiing is your ticket to cruise through snowy landscapes.

Track skiing

This style of skiing is practiced on groomed or track-set terrain, often on or around local ski hills. The skis are fairly narrow, have no metal edges, and are available with waxable or waxless bases.

  • Classic skis are characterized by the stride-and-glide motion that most people think of when they envision Nordic skiing.
  • Skating or freestyle skis offer a more aerobic form of Nordic skiing that involves a pronounced pole plant and an angled skating motion.
  • High-performance skis, either classic or skating, are designed for those entering recreational races or training for improved performance.

Off-track touring

Designed for people who do most of their skiing on ungroomed trails and terrain, these cross-country skis range from models that are a little wider than classic skis up to beefy mountaineering skis that have metal edges.

  • Touring skis suit undulating and hilly terrain where there is the possibility of slightly extended telemark-style descents. Shorter and wider than most Nordic skis, they also tend to be slightly heavier and more durable. They often have full metal edges to aid in traversing and descending. Find some off-track touring skis

Ski length

Classic skis should be taller than you. But, the precise length will depend on your weight and the intensity of your skiing. Ideally you should choose skis in person to find the right combination of length and flex so your skis will grip and glide properly.

Use these guidelines for a general idea of a length that may suit you:

  • For classic skis, add 25 to your height in centimeters to determine the length of the ski (in cm). Round up if you are heavier than average.
  • Skating skis should generally be 5 to 10cm taller than you. Again, you will get better results by having someone check the clearance of the skis as you weight and unweight them

Camber refers to the upward arching of a ski in the middle, more specifically its resistance to flattening when weighted. Ski stiffness and the amount of camber varies among ski manufacturers. Ski staff usually consult the manufacturer’s suggestions when matching ski length with skier weight.

Camber and stiffness

Torsional or lateral stiffness is the ski’s ability to resist twisting. In untracked snow, a torsionally stiff ski will not be deflected by terrain irregularities. However, many people prefer a slightly softer tip that will flow around irregularities on Nordic tracks and is less likely to jump out of a set track.

  • Classic skis have a double camber shape that give them a high, pronounced curve underfoot. The curve keeps the wax pocket out of the snow in the glide phase, and engages during the kick phase. The balance of contact and float is critical to classic technique. View some classic skis
  • Skating skis have a single stiff camber, more like alpine skis. If your skis are too soft you’ll lose power through the push phase, and your skis won’t glide smoothly. Too much camber will make it difficult to set the edge of the ski, particularly when you’re climbing. Take a look at skate skis

Sidecut and dual sidecut

Sidecut indicates the shape or profile of the ski and affects the way a ski tracks (travels in a straight line) and turns. Skis with limited sidecut and a straighter profile (classic skis) track  forward easily. Lots of sidecut makes turning easy but tracking won’t be as smooth. Skating skis usually have minimal sidecut: the tips and tails are only slightly wider than the waist. to make them stable in the glide phase.

Dual sidecut describes the shape of high-performance skis that have a wider shovel, waist, and tail. The advantage is more power in the push phase and the ability to easily return to centre during the glide phase.

Waxable and waxless bases

Waxable skis are the choice for racers or for high-performance training. Traction comes from the kick wax (also known as klister) applied to the middle third of the ski. When you release the kick portion of the ski, glide comes from a different wax (glide wax) applied to the rest of the base. As waxing is part art, part science, it  takes patience and practice, to learn to wax for all conditions, but a well-waxed ski rides smoother and faster than any waxless ski, especially in consistent temperatures, above or below freezing. Waxing in warmer, coastal climates can be a bit of a challenge.

Waxless skis have an area of textured pattern on the base that grips snow, yet allows the ski to glide when it’s released or when you’re going downhill. They suit casual skiers or people who just want a pair of skis to keep at the cabin, or skiers looking for an efficient choice for for all-conditions training. They need little maintenance, usually just some glide wax on the tip and tail sections.