For any type of roped climbing, a belay device is an essential piece of kit. With a bight of rope fed through the device, it functions as a brake, so you can easily hold the weight of a climber, stopping a fall, allowing them to rest, and controlling speed as you lower them back to the ground.
Just like climbing ropes or climbing shoes, there are great general-purpose options available and more specialized choices to suit climbers who want to focus on a single style of climbing. Choose a belay device based on the types of climbing you’ll be doing most of the time. A few pointers to get you started:
- A tubular-style device is a good all-round choice that also works for rappelling
- Long, multi-pitch routes are where the guide mode on a tubular device shines
- Gym climbers often choose a mechanical-assist braking device like a Petzl Grigri (some gyms only allow this type of device)
- A geometry-assisted (non-mechanical) braking device is a less-expensive option for gym climbing and single pitch cragging
- A big D-shaped locker suit most devices, but some benefit from a specialized carabiner to keep them oriented
Tubular-style belay devices
Simple, straightforward and popular among climbers, tubular devices evolved out of the earliest iterations of flat, plate-shaped and figure 8 devices. Over the years, they’ve been tweaked to suit modern steep routes and all types of roped climbing: sport, trad, gym, multi-pitch, ice and alpine. For decades, the Black Diamond ATC (Air Traffic Controller) was standard-issue on climbers’ racks, so you’ll sometimes hear any tubular device referred to as an ATC.
Most have two slots, so they work with a standard two-rope rappel setup.
When stopping a fall, these devices offer a soft catch, meaning there’s a bit of give in the system that effectively dissipates some of the force generated during a fall. The benefit only comes into play on trad routes, as it reduces the peak force applied to the protection a lead climber has placed. In a climbing gym or on sport routes where the protection is pre-fixed, this isn’t considered a benefit, as most climbers prefer a snappier, more predictable catch.
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Lightweight and inexpensive | Can be tiring to support a climbers' weight for a long time |
Great for beginners to learn and develop good belay skills | No backup or brake-assist function |
Compatible with a wide range of rope diameters and any two-rope system | Some climbing gyms are not OK with this style |
The Black Diamond ATC-XP and the Petzl Verso are nice lightweight options for a tubular belay device.
Pro tip: Most devices fit most ropes, but if you’re thinking about using a very specialized rope, with a diameter that’s extra fat (over 10mm) or extra thin (under 8mm), make sure everyone on your climbing team is using a device that’s compatible with the rope. This info is usually marked on the side of a belay device.
Tubular devices with guide (autoblock) mode
These are the same as standard tubular devices, with one added feature for multi-pitch routes. A metal loop at the top lets you attach the device to an anchor rather than your harness. Belaying from the anchor, you can then bring up a second climber, or if you’re climbing as a trio, you can add efficiency by bringing up both second climbers simultaneously.
When a belay device is rigged off the anchor, it becomes an assisted-braking device that pinches down on the rope if your second falls. Before using this configuration though, it’s a good idea to get familiar with the steps needed to release the device when it’s loaded. Some devices require a sling and several steps before you can safely lower your second.
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Same pros as tubular style devices, just a bit more expensive and a few grams heavier | Can be tiring to hold an extended hang, and may not be OK at a gym |
Adds assisted-braking function when off of anchor | Can be difficult to lower a second climber or feed slack to a second |
Requires a second locking carabiner to belay from an achor |
The Black Diamond ATC Guide, Wild Country Pro Guide and Petzl Reverso are all great options for a tubular device with a guide mode.
Pro tip: Learn and practice clipping into a Münter hitch. This climbers’ knot functions like a belay device. You can use it to belay a leader or second and you can rappel on it. Most of the time, you won’t need it, but if you drop your belay device (just imagine it’s late, your fingers are cold and you’re rushing to get off the route before dark) this skill can turn a major problem into a minor setback.
Assisted-braking belay devices
These devices are generally divided into two categories: mechanically-assisted and geometry-assisted. Both categories are designed to pinch the rope and stop a fall automatically when loaded. But hold up — we’ve crossed into some sketchy territory here by using the word “automatically.” These are not devices you can set and forget. When using one, your braking hand must remain on the rope at all times. An assisted-braking device provides an extra degree of safety and takes some pressure off your hand, but as the belayer, you remain on active duty.
Mechanically-assisted braking
Rather than pinching the rope around a carabiner, these devices have an internal camming mechanism that moves into locking position when loaded. They are sometimes called active-braking devices because of the moving cam. A handle releases the cam and helps you control the lowering speed. Once you get familiar with the operation, they’re comfortable to use, but there’s a bit of a learning curve until you can feed out rope quickly and smoothly to a lead climber. They only work with a single rope, so they can’t be used for a standard two-strand rappel, but they are the device of choice for working routes at indoor gyms and single-pitch sport climbs. Using one requires little effort or grip strength to hold a climber who’s hanging their full weight on the rope.
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Excellent for belaying someone projecting a hard route | Only compatible with a single rope |
Makes it easier for a lighter climber to belay a heavier climber | Some only work with a limited range of rope diameters |
Offers very smooth, controlled lowering | Relatively heavy and expensive |
Extra security of assisted braking | Some left-handed belayers find them awkward |
Not recommended for icy or wet ropes |
The Petzl Grigri or Grigri Plus are considered the gold standard for indoor climbing.
Geometry-assisted braking
Also called passive-braking devices, these are similar to tubular designs in that they have no moving parts. The shape causes them to shift and rotate into a locking mode when loaded. They’re a good option if you want the added security of assisted braking without the weight or expense of a mechanical device.
There’s a lot of variation within this category. Some accommodate a single rope while others can take two. Some have a loop that allows you to belay from the anchor. Some take a bit of practice to pay out slack easily, others are quite intuitive and simple to use.
Pro tip: If your gym requires an assisted-braking device and you also need a device to rappel with — you don’t have to buy two separate pieces of gear. Look for a geometry-assisted device that can accommodate two ropes, such as the Edelrid GigaJul.
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Relatively lightweight and inexpensive | Multiple modes adds complexity, not ideal for beginners |
Extra security of assisted braking | May only work with a limited range of rope diameters |
Offers versatility for use in many settings | Some work best with a locking carabiner that has a keeper loop to retain orientation |
Extra security of assisted braking | Can lock up when quickly feeding out slack |
A Black Diamond ATC Pilot or Mammut Smart 2.0 are popular choices in this category.
Belay device care and maintenance
Good news! A belay device needs very little maintenance. You should inspect it regularly to make sure it hasn’t developed sharp edges, burrs, deep grooves, cracks or worn cables. Keep it clean and wipe off any accumulated grit. To help your device last longer, maintain a slow, steady speed when lowering andrappelling. And if you drop it from a height, it’s best to retire it from use.
How to get started belaying
Most climbing gyms offer an intro course that covers the basics of belaying with a top-rope setup — and as a bonus you’ll be able to try out a few different types of belay devices before purchasing one. Once you’re skilled and confident in belaying climbers on top-rope, you may decide to learn how to belay a lead climber.
While a controlled environment like the gym is a great way to learn fundamental skills, taking them outside is a big step up in terms of adventure. Routes can be longer — potentially too long to lower off safely. Top anchors might not be what you’re used to. Bolts and gear placements can be widely spaced, creating the potential for big falls and significant consequences if the belayer isn’t attentive and adept at making the catch. Seeking out instruction from a guide certified through the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides or taking a course through the Alpine Club of Canada can smooth the transition from gym to crag and help you become a solid climber and superstar belayer.
Climbing packages at MEC
Need a complete climbing setup? If you buy a harness together with a pair of rock shoes, you can get 15% off both. If you purchase a belay device, locking carabiner, chalk, chalk bag or helmet at the same time, you receive 10% off those items as well.