Ice screws and accessories

Ice screws: Essential for winter climbing

Winter climbing offers a ton of exciting challenges, but safety hinges on having the right gear. Ice screws are indispensable for anyone planning on venturing into icy terrains, whether it means scaling frozen waterfalls or tackling steep alpine routes. These tubular, threaded anchors are specifically designed to secure placements in solid ice, providing climbers with the confidence and protection needed to navigate extreme conditions. Mastering the selection, use and care of ice screws is a fundamental part of safe and rewarding ice climbing. At MEC, you’ll find a range of ice screws from top-tier brands like Petzl and Black Diamond.

The basics of ice screws

Ice screws come in various lengths, generally ranging from 10 to 22 centimeters. The ideal length depends on the ice conditions and the climbing scenario. Shorter screws are better for thin or delicate ice, while longer screws offer enhanced security in thicker, more stable formations. Modern ice screws boast innovative designs, featuring sharp, robust teeth and user-friendly handles for swift placement—even in demanding environments. Many models are also color-coded for quick identification of their length, making it easier to select the right screw in critical moments.

Proper placement of ice screws is crucial for safety. To ensure a strong hold, they should be anchored into solid ice, free from cracks or air pockets. Screws should generally be inserted perpendicular to the ice surface or slightly angled downward to maximize their strength. Quickdraws or runners attached to the screws help reduce rope drag and maintain alignment. Beyond offering protection during upward climbing, ice screws are essential for building anchors for belaying or rappelling. Techniques like creating a V-thread allow climbers to safely descend icy routes by drilling two intersecting holes and threading a cord through them to form a secure anchor.

Maintaining your gear

Proper care extends the life and performance of your ice screws. After each climb, check your screws for damage, remove ice or debris and keep threads and teeth sharp for effective ice penetration. For more information on ice climbing, check out our article on Ice Climbing Basics: how to get started.