Snow and ice protection

Snow and ice protection tools for winter climbs

Winter climbing is an epic activity during the cold months, but the proper protection and gear is essential to make sure you’re being safe. Ice screws are important snow and ice protection tools for climbing planning on tackling frozen waterfalls, terrain and routes. These tubular, threaded anchors are designed to create secure placements in solid ice, offering protection and confidence while navigating icy landscapes. Knowing how to choose, use and maintain ice screws is key to safe and successful ice climbing adventures. At MEC, you can find a variety of ice screws from trusted outdoor brands like Black Diamond, Petzl and more.

Ice screws: Explained

Ice screws come in various lengths, typically ranging from 10 to 22 centimeters. The appropriate length depends on the ice conditions and the type of climbing. Shorter screws are best for thin ice or fragile formations, while longer screws provide greater security in thicker, more stable ice. Modern ice screws feature advanced designs with sharp, durable teeth and ergonomic handles, letting climbers place them fast and easily, even in challenging conditions. Some models also include colour-coded hangers to help climbers quickly identify the length. The placement of your ice screws is a critical skill in ice climbing. A properly placed screw anchors securely into solid ice, distributing forces effectively during a fall. When placing a screw, you need to be sure that the ice is stable and free of cracks or air pockets. Screws should be placed perpendicular to the ice surface or angled slightly downward for optimal strength. The use of quickdraws or runners attached to the screws reduces rope drag and helps maintain proper alignment. Ice screws are not only used for protection during upward climbing but also play a crucial role in creating anchors for belaying or rappelling. Building a V-thread, or Abalakov anchor, using ice screws is a common technique for descending icy routes safely. This involves drilling two intersecting holes in the ice and threading a piece of cord through them, creating a secure anchor point.

Extra info about snow and ice protection

Care and maintenance of ice screws are essential for their longevity and performance. After each climb, your screws should be inspected for damage and cleaned of ice and debris. Keeping the threads and teeth sharp ensures they can penetrate ice effectively. Storing screws in protective sleeves prevents damage during transport. You can read up on ice climbing basics and how to get started on our website for more information.