Care instructions: do not wash|do not tumble dry|do not bleach|do not iron|do not dry clean|rub grease into leather regularly|soft brush and lukewarm water
Environmental info: Organic|Recycled|Fluorocarbon-free impregnation CARE & REPAIR Made from a mixture of beeswax and paraffin, Greenland Wax is a simple, nature-inspired solution to the challenges faced in the outdoors. Most of our G-1000 materials come pre-waxed, but it’s still a good idea to know how to re-apply and remove the wax to adapt your jacket to the conditions. Most of our G-1000 garments come pre-waxed; but after a few washes and with regular use the wax will need a top up. And if you know you’re going somewhere that’s likely to be wet and windy, then you can plan ahead and add an extra layer of Greenland Wax. Areas more exposed to the elements like the knees, rear and lower parts of trousers, or the front, hood and back hem of jackets can benefit from some extra wax. Note that it is only G-1000 that can be waxed. 1. APPLY WAX Take the block of Greenland Wax and rub it with long, smooth strokes against the fabric leaving behind a thin, even layer. You’ll want to apply some pressure when you do this, but not too much that your movements becomes jerky. 2. HEAT Using an iron (or a hairdryer) on low to moderate heat, melt the wax into the fabric. Again use long, even strokes. Greenland Wax melts at between 55°C and 60°C (131-140°F), so try to keep the iron temperature around this point – you don’t want the wax to get too runny. Don’t forget to wipe off the iron after use before ironing other garments. 3. REPEAT This step isn’t always necessary, but if you want to make the fabric even more water resistant, repeat the process several times rather than applying a single, thick layer of wax. This is a good idea for exposed sections of the garment such as the hood and shoulders or the knees and rear. WAXING ON THE GO You can also use the flame of a camp stove to melt Greenland Wax. If you choose to wax on the go, hold the garment roughly 20-30cm above a steady flame. Don’t start too close! Begin further away and slowly move the garment closer to the flame until you see the wax starting to melt. Be careful not to burn the fabric or yourself. Keyfeatures out the fabric over the flame and move it back and forth until the wax has melted. REACTIVATING GREENLAND WAX Sometimes you just want to reactivate the Greenland Wax already on the garment, like if that winter jacket has been hanging in storage all summer. Or if you’ve washed the jacket once, but it feels as though the wax has washed out. Iron (or use a hairdryer) the garment on a low heat. The heat will draw the wax out of the fabric and you should be able to feel the difference straight away. REMOVING GREENLAND WAX Sometimes wind and water resistance isn’t your number one priority. Sometimes you want your garments to allow for airflow, like when it’s warm and sunny. In this case, it’s a good idea to remove Greenland Wax. All you have to do is wash your garment at 40°C two or three times. HOW TO WAX G-1000 Adapt to whatever nature brings G-1000 is a tough material and the tight weave (except G-1000 Air) makes it naturally pretty wind resistant. But by adding Greenland Wax, made from a mixture of beeswax and paraffin, you can increase this wind resistant, make the fabric even more durable and add water resistance. By removing it, you can make it lighter and airier. Note that Greenland Wax offers water-resistance, not waterproofness. Find out the difference here. Most of our G-1000 garments come pre-waxed; but after a few washes and with regular use the wax will need a top up. And if you know you’re going somewhere that’s likely to be wet and windy, then you can plan ahead and add an extra layer of Greenland Wax. Areas more exposed to the elements like the knees, rear and lower parts of trousers, or the front, hood and back hem of jackets can benefit from some extra wax. Note that it is only G-1000 that can be waxed. The outdoor fabric you can count on. Buy G-1000 products from Fjällräven Online Store. Step-by-step: How to Wax your G-1000 garments Waxing is pretty easy to do. Just remember these three steps: apply, heat and repeat. 1. APPLY WAX Take the block of Greenland Wax and rub it with long, smooth strokes against the fabric leaving behind a thin, even layer. You’ll want to apply some pressure when you do this, but not too much that your movements becomes jerky. 2. HEAT Using an iron (or a hairdryer) on low to moderate heat, melt the wax into the fabric. Again use long, even strokes. Greenland Wax melts at between 55°C and 60°C (131-140°F), so try to keep the iron temperature around this point – you don’t want the wax to get too runny. Don’t forget to wipe off the iron after use before ironing other garments. 3. REPEAT This step isn’t always necessary, but if you want to make the fabric even more water resistant, repeat the process several times rather than applying a single, thick layer of wax. This is a good idea for exposed sections of the garment such as the hood and shoulders or the knees and rear. WAXING ON THE GO You can also use the flame of a camp stove to melt Greenland Wax. If you choose to wax on the go, hold the garment roughly 20-30cm above a steady flame. Don’t start too close! Begin further away and slowly move the garment closer to the flame until you see the wax starting to melt. Be careful not to burn the fabric or yourself. Keyfeatures out the fabric over the flame and move it back and forth until the wax has melted. What happens when waxing products with down or synthetic padding or Hydratic lining? So you don’t affect the filling, lining or the sensitive synthetic lining used to stop down escaping through fabric, we recommend using a hairdryer to warm the wax. For down, you can also use a tumble dryer on a low heat. REACTIVATING GREENLAND WAX Sometimes you just want to reactivate the Greenland Wax already on the garment, like if that winter jacket has been hanging in storage all summer. Or if you’ve washed the jacket once, but it feels as though the wax has washed out. Iron (or use a hairdryer) the garment on a low heat. The heat will draw the wax out of the fabric and you should be able to feel the difference straight away. REMOVING GREENLAND WAX Sometimes wind and water resistance isn’t your number one priority. Sometimes you want your garments to allow for airflow, like when it’s warm and sunny. In this case, it’s a good idea to remove Greenland Wax. All you have to do is wash your garment at 40°C two or three times. WHAT NOT TO WAX Many of our products aren’t made entirely from G-1000. A good deal are made from a combination of materials, such as our Keb Jacket and Trousers that are made with G-1000 and synthetic stretch fabric. It is only G-1000 that can be waxed. So take extra care when waxing these types of garments to avoid getting wax on non-G-1000 materials. WASHING G-1000 GARMENTS Being made from cotton and polyester, G-1000 can be machine-washed at 40°C (although washing at 30°C is kinder to the environment). However, because the Greenland Wax washes out after two or three cycles, we suggest only washing your garment when it really needs it. If the item is made from a combination of fabrics, you should pay close attention to the washing care label inside the garment – especially those with down or synthetic padding

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