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Outdoor Tips, Tricks, Inspiration and Activities | MEC Blog

Ah, the Great White North. Not just a hilarious 80s SCTV skit featuring everyone’s favourite hosers (Bob and Doug McKenzie), but also a land of endless snow. Our vast Canadian landscape is home to over 40 resorts, all dedicated to fulfilling the downhill desires of generations of ski bums. With many hills now open for the winter season, what better time to reminisce about the roots of our riding addictions? We’ve rounded up a sweet collection of vintage photos from some local resorts. Take off, eh!

##### Blue Mountain Resort, Ontario


## More ski articles
- [The evolution of ski style](/en/article/the-evolution-of-ski-style)
- [MEC favourites: the ubiquitous Uplink](/en/article/mec-favourites-the-ubiquitous-uplink-jacket)
- [Why wool is great for your active wardrobe](/en/explore/wool-garments-for-the-outdoors)



23 vintage Canadian ski photos | MEC Blog

23 vintage Canadian ski photos

*What does it take to capture a one-one thousandth-of-a-second, once-in-a-lifetime shot? Reuben reveals how he teamed with Salomon, trekked to the Arctic Circle, and captured a skier in a solar eclipse.*

A third of the way through Salomon’s latest episode of [Freeski TV](http://freeskitv.salomon.com/en/episodes/eclipse?intcmp=mainmea_vertical_us_hp_eclipse_FW15#eclipse-1), viewers meet the dreamer behind a questionable chase to the Arctic Circle. His ambition: to capture a skier in motion during one of nature’s rarest phenomena – a total solar eclipse. The subject is photographer Reuben Krabbe, who wowed ski fans in February 2015 after capturing fellow ambassador Tobin Seagel skiing against a backdrop of the northern lights.

“There’s a Grant Gunderson photograph of a skier amongst a trail of stars,” says Reuben, citing the Gunderson work as the inspiration for his Aurora Borealis shot. “After that photograph of Tobin, I was looking at maps available through NASA that show all of the different places where solar eclipses are going to happen in the next 20, 50, 100, 200 years.” So where was Reuben to find his white whale? Svalbard – a Norwegian group of islands sandwiched between mainland Norway and the North Pole. Rugged and teeming with glaciers, frozen tundra, and a fellowship of polar bears, it’s the very definition of remote, and one of just two places where the total eclipse could be viewed in 2015.



Roughly one solar eclipse appears per year, but typically in places where people won’t see them, such as the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Worse yet, they often occur when the moon is too far away from earth, so it doesn’t fully cover the sun.

Eager to bring his dream to life, Reuben pitched the idea to the director of Salomon Freeski TV, Mike Douglas, in late 2014. He recognized the hook of the story immediately: this had never been done before. But, there were risks. “We both knew the chances of it working out were so low – if you miss it through the clouds, it’s not that interesting. It’s completely boring actually. You’d just be able to show a time lapse of a cloudy day getting dark and bright again.” Salomon came back to Reuben with a green light. “They said, ‘we love this idea, let’s do everything possible to make this happen in the best way.’ I was completely taken aback.”

The team consisted of skiers Chris Rubens, Cody Townsend and Brody Leven; director and filmmaker Anthony Bonello; on-slope videographer Bjarne Salen; guide Steve Lewis; Reuben; a camp cook; and two ski guides (one an ex-trauma doctor). They spent three weeks on Svalbard and winter-camped while scouting locations for an additional 12 days. Reuben credits Bonello as the coordinator behind the trip, allowing Reuben to simply make sure he was winter ready. His set up included the [MEC Radiator Parka](/en/product/5036-945/Radiator-Parka), boot warmers, and essentially everything a person needs to not freeze.



Leading up to the eclipse, the team had no idea of the elements they would face. Clear days were used to scout the right location, leading to some frustrated skiers. “We were burning these bluebird days that have stable snow and perfect light and we hadn’t got to ski great stuff yet, just two little chutes. They were all looking at all the stuff they wanted to ski and the pursuit of this single photo – a photo we don’t know whether or not will turn out – is preventing them from skiing,” Reuben sympathizes. “It’s just this impossible thing to deal with. They went through with it, but were vocal, which is good. I was just as frustrated that I was the person standing in the way.”

When the day of the eclipse finally arrived, the team was elated to see the weather was working in their favour, and Reuben’s dream was realized. Bonello shot some stunning footage of the total eclipse: waves of light gently rippling around a massive black orb. As the light changes, Svalbard appears as an alternate world with two moons; one bright orange, the other heavy ebony, both filled with quiet contrast and mystery. For a short time, the sky goes black, and moments later dawn-like rays careen into the scene, blanketing sheets of fresh white powder in light.

“It was pure elation. Everyone finally understood why this is such a dramatic thing that people fly around the world to just watch,” says Reuben. “We got to create something with it. The success validated the entire pursuit. And then, finally, we got to go skiing. We went back to camp, grabbed some food, and went. We got some beautiful shots [of that] right away. It was nice, to go back to simple shooting in the Arctic.”



Salomon’s Freeski TV episode recently screened at the Banff Mountain Film Festival to great acclaim, taking home the grand prize for Best Film in the Snow Sports category. “I had no idea going into it that it was going to have this kind of reception outside of skiers. It put this huge validating stamp on this concept and the entire project,” says Reuben. “It’s been a beautiful way to kick things off.”

For now, Reuben is enjoying the afterglow. “Regardless of whether you’re a skier or not, when you see the solar eclipse photo, you can’t help but stop and look and start trying to figure out ‘What is this? The moon? The sun? How on earth did they do this?’ I think the fact that I can do that by capturing one-one-thousandth of a second is just so cool.”

*– Photos by Reuben Krabbe. Check out MEC’s selection of [Salomon gear](/en/brand/salomon/products/gear/c/gear?q=%3Asales-rank&text=).*



The photo of a lifetime: solar eclipse | MEC blog

The photo of a lifetime: solar eclipse

Growing up skiing, I went on to become a ski-a-holic and CSIA Level II instructor while my sister swore off the sport. Where did my family and I go wrong?

If I remember right, we were at Nakiska and no more than eight and six years old when my Mum snuck up behind my little sister and gently unhooked the ski leash she was tethered to. Although she was in control, as soon as little Stacey realized her safety net was gone, she went wild with panic, gained a fair amount of speed, and went crashing into an orange safety fence. That was the beginning of the end.

Over the years she humoured us with family trips to Whitefish, Montana or days out on local mountains, but recently, while we were packing for a trip with friends to Fernie, she lamented, “Why doesn’t anyone believe me that I just don’t like skiing?” I don’t know why I hadn’t believed her. To me, skiing is just so damn *fun*. How could anyone not enjoy whipping down the hill, chill on your cheeks, feeling sheets of untouched snow at the base of your skis? There’s nothing else like it.

So, I figured it couldn’t have just been that one snow fence incident, but rather a collection of recurrent gaffes on the part of our family. Here’s where she said we went wrong:

### 1. Ski the same hill every time
Keep them super attached to the same bunny hill and same magic carpet. No need to expand their comfort or skill level.

*Ski coach fix: Introduce your kids to a bunch of different hills and runs. A change in terrain will give them the confidence to tackle new slopes as their ski level improves.*

### 2. Don’t ask, just do
Ignore your kids’ requests to repeat the bunny hill yet again. Remember, as the parent, you make the rules – they don’t know what they want.

*Ski coach fix: Stick it out on the bunny hill until you see confidence levels soar. Don’t rely too much on props to keep your kids upright, as they will rely on you to steer and stop. Play follow-the-leader or red light-green light and let them set the pace.*

### 3. Ski, lift, repeat
Stay focused on your end game – you’re raising a skier here. Breaks should be kept to a minimum, with lap and run count high. The more chairs you get in, the better.

*Ski coach fix: Give your kids a break from the descent and still work on their snowplough: find a flat space at the base of the hill out of the way of ski traffic and have them make bow ties and arrow shapes in the snow with only their boots. This helps develop the ability to pivot their feet without the weight of a ski.*



### 4. Seek to ski in cold weather
Snow covered trees and summit vistas are only enhanced by a severe drop in temperature. They’ll be tougher skiers if they go out at 40 below zero.

*Ski coach fix: Keep your kids warm and dry to keep them happy. Up your number of lodge visits as the temperature drops and carry extra layers, keeping a close eye out for frostbite (when pink cheeks turn white). On extra cold days, [hand and toe warmers](/en/products/gear/camping-and-hiking-gear/first-aid%2C-health-and-safety/hand-and-toe-warmers/c/1212) and [tasty hot chocolate](/en/products/gear/camping-and-hiking-gear/food-and-drink/coffee-and-hot-chocolate/c/1581) are your best friends.*

### 5. Try to teach them yourself
You’ve got a lot of years under your belt, and you can teach a toddler a thing or two. Nothing brings a family closer together than 24/7 time on the hill.

*Ski coach fix: It’s that universal truth that no one wants to hear it from their own family. If you’ve got young skiers, stick them in a lesson. They’ll be comfortable around other kids at the same skill level and chomping at the bit to show you what they learned when class is over.*

### 6. Resort to Peer Pressure
Persuade your kids to do it your way, before they get old enough to realize they can form their own opinions about sports. “Everyone is outside skiing and having fun except you” is a good place to start.

*Ski coach fix: Your kids just might not love skiing the same way you do, or they might want to take up snowboarding, play in the terrain park, or try Nordic skiing instead. Keep them loving winter by trading in skis for tobogganing, tubing, building forts and snowmen or snowshoeing and try again next season.*

In the end, my sister still has fun in winter and she’s very active. Throughout high school she danced a lot, she plays softball in the summer, hits the gym frequently, and loves to run. I’ve decided to let her go a couple winters free from harassment. Besides, I estimate I’ve only got about five years before I can teach her kids to ski instead.



Ever wonder why some kids grow up loving a sport while others come to hate it? Learn to keep your kids loving the slopes.

How to make your kids hate skiing | MEC Blog

How to make your kids hate skiing

How do you capture the brightness of snow, keep your ski photos from falling flat on an overcast day, or frame a motion shot? These are my top ten tips for shooting on the slopes.

#### 1. Sunny days play in meadows, cloudy days work in trees


Whatever terrain you find naturally gives you better visibility for skiing in bright or flat light, those same spots are where you’ll also find better light for photography. Trees absorb light during grey days and add contrast to the snow. On sunny days, bask in the abundant light of the open alpine.

#### 2. Leave space in the frame ahead of the skier


A photograph is a story in a single moment. Great images portray the past, present and future of action in a single image. Leave space in front of the skier so the viewer can imagine where they will be next.

In this example, there wasn’t much room inside of the couloir, and I wanted the bottom of the line, the sky, and Tobin all in the photo, so, I took out my shovel and dug myself into the snowpack a little. This way I could get far enough from the action and see everything at once, leaving room ahead of Tobin for the story to make sense.

#### 3. Account for bright snow in your exposure


Snow, mountains and sunsets are notoriously difficult things for cameras to capture since they are bright and framing them often includes fast-moving subject matter. The camera’s auto modes give you an average exposure of 50% grey. Since you’re standing on bright white snow, the camera is going to adjust that snow to be more of a grey tone in most auto settings. If I had used an automatic metering mode on the camera, this photo would’ve been much darker. Although many cameras have exposure compensation for this, shoot in full manual exposure if you can, and put time into figuring out how to use your histogram – a graphic representation of pixels used in your image (here’s some [more info](http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-read-and-use-histograms/)). Using my histogram to calculate exposure helped properly expose the image.

#### 4. Bring action and location together


Skiing is as much about the sport as the place the sport happens. To show off great terrain, take time to focus on cool natural features like old broken trees, mossy patches on rock, or any other natural wonders that catch your eye.

#### 5. Coordinate a moment with your athlete


Great photographs have precise composition, so plan the way you want the action to unfold ahead of shooting it. Find the place you want to shoot from and determine exactly where you want the skier to be in that frame. Work with the athlete so they know where they need to hit their mark (snowballs thrown at the mark can help). I shot this picture of Eliel with my telephoto lens, purposefully leaving out the sky to focus on the bottom of the Cheakamus Glacier. We chatted for several minutes about having him execute a skier’s right hand turn on that exact part of the ridge. The photo was later published in *Backcountry* magazine.

#### 6. Pre-focus the camera


It’s an absolute pain to get everything right in a photo, but then have to tell the athlete that the shot isn’t in focus. I almost never focus the camera during action, but instead I have the camera setup so all I have to do is hold down the shutter button at the right time.

There are a ton of different techniques to pre-focus a camera. On a digital SLR you can use autofocus on the point where you want the action, and then flip the switch to manual so the camera can’t try to re-focus before the action happens. Or you can use focus lock, wherein the camera locks focus as long as you’re holding down the shutter button half way.

What if your camera isn’t focusing on the white seamless snow? Estimate the distance between where you are and where the skier will be, then look around. Are there any other objects about the same distance away? If so, focus on that, switch to manual, and shoot.

Since there was nothing to focus on for this photo of Stan on the white snow, I had to estimate the distance between us (about 30 feet) and find a tree nearby that seemed to be a similar distance away. Then, after focusing on that tree, I re-composed the shot, told Stan to drop in, and snapped the frame.

#### 7. Shoot early, or late


Great light happens early and late in the day, so bust out the toe warmers and have a thermos of tea or coffee at the ready – early birds and patient folk will be rewarded.

Working with Kicking Horse’s ski patrol, Tobin and I were given special access to an alpine bowl to shoot during the crispy morning light. This was a real privilege, as normally we ski tour through the darkness to get this kind of shot at dawn.

#### 8. Find ‘skim’ light


If you aren’t on the mountaintop at sunrise, there’s still good imagery to be found. Look for places on the hill where the light is hitting at a shallow angle; anywhere that’s happening, there lies great potential for dramatic lighting, especially if you shoot towards the sun. Also, the edge of most shadows can be a great place to create a dark background.

Although this shot was captured at 10am, many hours after sunrise, we were able to find a ridgeline where the light was falling away to shadow, and I knew I could shoot towards the sun to capture some beautiful, contrasting light.

#### 9. Shoot 45 degrees up slope


Shooting up towards a skier at roughly a 45-degree angle (right between straight up slope and straight across slope) keeps the skier visible and the slope looking steeper too. This has to do with “convergence”; if you shoot a photo of a skyscraper looking up, it appears to diminish towards a vanishing point. When you point your camera up slope, the same thing happens to the ski photograph, enhancing the steepness of the terrain.

Shot during the Deep Winter photo challenge in 2013, there wasn’t much snowfall, so we had to make the most of small pockets for fresh snow. This strategic shooting came in handy for making a mellow zone look a lot better.

#### 10. Copy images


I’m a firm believer that this is one of the best ways to learn photography techniques; to emulate the best. Find ski photographs you love, and try everything you can to recreate the image – I don’t mean similar, I mean identical. This isn’t to replicate someone else’s work or claim their creativity as your own, but by working through all the details of an existing composition, you’ll learn to recognize the nuances of a ski photograph and adjust accordingly.

Taken during the Deep Winter photo challenge in 2012, I was trying to emulate Eric Berger’s shot of a skier airing over a snow cave. During this shoot, I learned a lot about size of air, space, shape, falling snow, light condition, skier form, and much more.

##### 


## More ski articles
- [Ski touring checklist](/en/article/ski-touring-checklist)
- [What to wear when you go skiing](/en/article/bluebird-to-whiteout-how-to-dress-for-ski-days)
- [How to wash and re-waterproof your ski jacket](/en/explore/caring-for-a-waterproof-jacket)



10 tips for great ski photos | MEC Blog

10 tips for great ski photos

I’m interested in what folks keep in their packs for emergencies, and I like to compare notes so I can create the ultimate kit suited to my style of backcountry travel. My trips are usually one-day missions, where I depart from home at 3am and venture into the darkness. During early season, I start thinking about what I should include or pull from my bag. Contents might change depending on the mission or how remote my destination is.

There’s always a focus on lightening our loads in the backcountry and I cringe at the idea of adding more gear, but there should be a few minimum items carried by all enthusiasts. I’d like to think this list, made with one- to three-day excursions in mind, hits the sweet spot. Some of these items never leave my bag and would see me through an injury or unplanned bivy. Wherever possible, I try to use items that are multi-purpose to save space. Coordinate with your trip partners to find out what gear can be shared amongst a group and adjust your first aid kit to group numbers and personal requirements.

***Note:**** This list does not include backcountry safety essentials. Visit [Avalanche Canada](http://www.avalanche.ca/) for further information, and make sure you’re trained in avalanche safety before venturing into any backcountry situation.*

##### Ski straps
I carry four [ski straps](/en/products/snow/ski-straps/c/2142): two 15cm straps and two 24cm straps as a minimum. The uses are endless, from keeping you organized and efficient when loading a helicopter to lashing your skies/poles together like a pro.

Other strap hacks:

- Use the strap to bind your skins to your skis in the event they aren’t sticking.
- If your skins aren’t sticking to the snow, these add grip to your stride.
- Lash extras to your pack.
- Compress stuff sacks.
- You can immobilize limbs for a variety of injuries when you use them with ski poles or sticks. They can also hold pressure on soft tissue injuries or soakers on large open wounds.
- Helps MacGyver a rescue toboggan by fastening skis together.

##### Small headlamp
If I know I’m going to need a lamp, I’ll usually take a high powered model. I wouldn’t recommend a small [headlamp](/en/products/gear/lighting-and-headlamps/headlamps/c/1306?q=%3Asales-rank) as your primary light source, but I carry one as a backup unit for navigation. I’m a fan of the [Petzl Zipka headlamp](/en/product/5051-147/Zipka-Headlamp).

##### Tape
Tape can be used for injury aid, taping parts and skins to skis, and general resourcefulness.

- Electrician tape is great until temperatures dip.
- [Duct tape](/en/product/1999-804/Duct-Tape---Silver-48mm-x-25m-Roll) is best, but you can’t avoid the sticky residue.
- White medical tape is great, and can help in a real emergency.

##### Emergency bivy or tarp and sleeping pad
[Bivies](/en/products/gear/tents-and-shelters/bivy-sacks/c/1437?q=%3Asales-rank) or [tarps](/en/products/gear/tents-and-shelters/tarps-and-light-shelters/c/1441?q=%3Asales-rank) are great to have if an injury crops up. These lightweight shelters provide insulation from the snow and protection from the elements. And should you ever get trapped by the dark, you’ll need a stronghold.

- There are many emergency models of bivies to choose from. I tend to carry a siltarp that can fit two people for additional warmth and can also double as a shelter. A bright color helps you be seen.
- A [bivy sleeping pad](/en/product/0808-097/Evazote-Bivy-Sleeping-Pad) is cut to fit flat inside your pack, making it a great seat or extra insulation for an unexpected night out. I’ll often sit on my pack and put this under my feet, and it definitely makes a difference in heat loss.

##### Lighter and firestarter
In cases of delayed exit or unexpected overnights, fire is a great asset. Also, if someone incurs an injury and you’re stuck awaiting evacuation, it can help with shock prevention.

- A waterproof and impact-resistant [lighter](/en/product/5041-318/Floating-Lighter) case is great. I always store mine in an additional re-sealable plastic bag, because you can’t be too prepared. It’s best to make sure your ski partner has one as well.
- There are a few different kinds of [firestarters](/en/products/gear/camp-kitchen/stoves%2c-fuel-and-fire/fire-starters%2c-matches-and-lighters/c/1282?q=%3Asales-rank), so select the one best for you and test it out before you depart. I prefer the [sticks](/en/product/5006-888/Fire-Starter) and have had good success starting a fire in doubtful conditions.

##### Multi-tool
You never know when you might need to do a field repair. Find a [multi-tool](/en/products/gear/knives-and-tools/multi-tools/c/1291?q=%3Asales-rank) that works to cover your needs in an unexpected situation. Look at driver bits that suit the equipment you carry.



##### First aid kit
Taking a Wilderness First Aid course will help you think outside the box in case you end up dealing with backcountry emergencies. A [first aid kit](/en/products/gear/health-and-safety/first-aid-kits/c/1210) is a definite necessity. Being able to modify or tweak your gear can be a real lifesaver.

- One thing I always make sure I have is one pressure dressing. The soaker gauze utilizes tensor bandage-like wrap for pressure, but can also be used as support for sprains and strains.
- Suture bandages, and lots of them.
- Bring along some Ibuprofen for that early season hip flexor pain.

##### Bailing wire
Simply put, if something starts falling apart or breaks, this is a great way to hold it together.

##### Synthetic jacket**
**
I carry my [MEC Commix Hoodie](/en/product/5036-944/Commix-Hoodie) (women can grab the [MEC Spicy Hoodie](/en/product/5037-102/Spicy-Hoodie)) in a light dry bag and squeeze all the air out so it’s totally compact. Warm, compressible layers are essential to any backcountry outing. I bring mine every single time.

##### Pole baskets
In serious powder, poles are useless without baskets, so bring an extra pair and it could save your day, or at the very least, get you a few more turns. [Black Diamond Powder Baskets](/en/product/5005-941/Powder-Baskets) are a great option.

##### Prima Bar
Fight the bonk and fuel the engine! These [tasty bars](/en/brand/prima/products/gear/food-and-drink/energy-bars/c/1178?q=%3Asales-rank&text=) are equally good frozen or thawed and pack a decent calorie punch for their size and weight. Cherry Coconut is my favourite flavour.

##### Small hot packs
[Hot packs](/en/products/gear/health-and-safety/hand-and-toe-warmers/c/1212) make the coldest part of the night bearable. Make sure you bring multiple, and place these small packs in key areas to keep you warm, like around your femoral arteries (target it at your inner upper thigh or where they branch out at your tailbone). It’s amazing how long a single night can feel, and these little guys give you the confidence boost to see the night through.

##### Skin wax
When you’re out spring skiing with sticky snow conditions, it’s almost mandatory to keep a small block of [skin wax](/en/product/4006-110/Glop-Stopper-Wax) to prevent snow building up on your skin bases. Bringing this wax along helps you save your hip flexors and energy.

##### Batteries
Someone always forgets to put fresh [batteries](/en/products/gear/electronics/batteries/c/1113) in either their headlamp or the transceiver. Pack a couple as backup and be the hero of the day.



See some of the essentials and a few clever hacks to up your safety quotient.

What to pack for a day of backcountry skiing | MEC Blog

What to pack for a day of backcountry skiing

I had the chance to take Ghost Bikes’ latest all-mountain machine out for a test ride. After a successful year on the most playful and fun bike I’ve owned – the Ghost Riot 7 LC – I was excited to try the new model, the 2015 Ghost Riot LT 8 LC. It has some distinct differences from the Riot 7 LC I rode in 2014, and here are my thoughts on the changes that created the new LT series.



The “LT” stands for “long-travel,” and it reflects the adjustable 150/120mm Fox 34 Talas fork that’s spec’d on the bike. Using the same 130mm Riot-link suspension as the Riot 7 LC, the LT 8 has a taller stack height and a slacker geometry compared to its predecessor. It has a 67° head tube angle for better control while descending aggressive terrain, without compromising climbing or maneuverability.



The carbon fibre Riot LT 8 LC is the mid-level model to the Riot LT series. Spec’d with a full Shimano XT drivetrain, it includes a clutch-style, medium-caged rear derailleur and a 38-24 tooth 2×10 crankset. The brake system is also Shimano XT, which is recognized as one of the leaders in 2-piston hydraulic brakes.



Adjustable seat posts have become a favourite with mountain bikers, and the KS LEV post that comes with the bike is a solid and reliable example of why they’re so popular. With 125mm of cable-actuated adjustable travel, this post lets you position your seat in the right place for any trail situation. All cables are routed internally, which offers more than just aesthetic value. It also protects cables from prematurely wearing out and keeps them running smooth and clean.



One of the most notable features of the new Riot LT is the Cane Creek’s Double Barrel Inline. The stability and responsiveness of the Riot’s carbon frame is nicely complemented by the precise tuning capabilities of the shock. The ability to fine-tune your suspension with the Riot’s suspension design has brought this bike to another level of excellence.

The suspension curve follows a digressive trend in the first 20% of travel to help you settle into an efficient pedalling platform. From there, the curve takes a more linear path as you move through the 20-80% range of your travel. When the Riot Link engages in the last 20% of travel, the rate shifts to a more progressive curve for bottom-out control.

The result is a bike that pedals fast, is comfortable through its different ranges of travel, and ramps up for big hits.



I highly recommend this bike to anyone looking for a nimble trail bike with the angles to make climbing a breeze, but still allows for aggressive descending. With 20mm more fork travel, a higher stack height, and slacker head tube angle than the LC, the LT model is a confidence booster when you tackle technical trails. The Riot LT is a highly capable bike that builds off the success of the award-winning suspension design used throughout the Riot series.



Review of the 2015 Ghost bikes Riot LT | MEC Blog

Review of the 2015 Ghost bikes Riot LT

Emelie Stenberg pulled out a map of the Pamirs and walked us through her plan to traverse the Fedchenko Glacier in Tajikistan. Her idea sounded horrible. Vince and I were hooked. So we started planning the longest and most ambitious expedition of our lives. *–**Story**by Holly Walker, photos and video by Vince Shuley*

#### Day 8 of 29: May 7 (4200m)
I leaned on the outside wall of the Gorbunov meteorological station, sipping on a splash of génépi to celebrate with the team. Our arrival onto the Fedchenko Glacier was now just 300m away. Warm sun beat on my face and I wiggled my toes on the dry rocks in front of me. Taking another sip of génépi – one of our two bottles of booze we carried up here – I questioned the bottle’s weight. At that point, I also questioned how we’d even gotten here.



It had taken two years of planning, three days of flights, five days of in-country preparation with three days of ground transportation in an overloaded Nissan Patrol SUV and a GAZ-66 Russian military truck in the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province (GBAP). Then eight days of slogging up and down, up and down the talus-covered Russian Geographical Society (RGS) Glacier with almost 90kg of gear each.

Now we were at the access point onto the Fedchenko Glacier. We’d travelled up the crevasse-ridden RGS Headwall three times, and our five-person team – Team Flow – was deep in the Pamir Mountains, the so-called Roof of the World. The surrounding peaks were massive, some rising above 6000m, and the 77km Fedchenko Glacier was vast.



I felt so little.

#### 587 days prior to day 1: (200m)
Photojournalist Vince Shuley and I met Ski Guide Emelie Stenberg for dinner. She had ideas to ski crazy zones in Central Asia, and walked us through her plan to traverse the Fedchenko Glacier. During her research, she’d also found an old Alpine Journal article about a Russian ski expedition that traversed the Pamirs in 1995.

> “Ours was the first unsupported expedition to cross the Pamirs from the SE to the NW – a distance of 480km. If you try to imagine spending 30 days as one of a small four-member group, at altitudes up to 6000m and temperatures sometimes down to -34°C, with only 550 grams of dry food per person per day, you will have some idea of the challenge we faced.” – From the Transpamirs Ski Expedition, The Alpine Journal, 1995
>
I knew nothing of the former Soviet Union “stans” nor the Pamirs. Tajikistan is west of China, north of Afghanistan, east of Uzbekistan and south of Kyrgystan. The Pamirs take up about eighty per cent of the country and mainly lie in the GBAP, and there are few recorded stories of its 6000m-plus peaks.



#### Day 1 of 29: April 30, (2500m)
Yesterday, Team Flow passed all the necessary military checkpoints and we were only three kilometres away from Poi Mazar when our overloaded SUV burst a tire trying to cross the river. Saidali, our local fixer from Pamir Guides, made a call on his cellphone to Jafar, our host in Poi Mazar. We frantically organized our gear for the 30-day expedition in the dark, leaving any unnecessary equipment and food in the SUV. Jafar and his GAZ-66 truck arrived and we loaded it up as I negotiated the rate of passage – what later seemed like a pointless task when our other choice was to sit in the dark on a riverbank full of boulders for the night. Our driver bade us farewell and left us with a warning, “Be careful, you will get so high that Sputnik will hit you.”

When we arrived at Jafar’s home, he fed us our final home-cooked meal for the next month and registered our team’s entrance into Tajik National Park. We wrote our team’s intention of crossing the RGS glacier, traversing the Fedchenko and exiting out towards the Bartang Valley. Jafar gestured avalanches with his hands and shook his head. He then flipped through his Tajik-English dictionary and pointed at one word: “impossible.”

We loaded back into the military truck and continued the bumpy ride to the foot of the RGS glacier, and started ski touring with our packed sleds. After 400m, we hit the River Abdulkhahor. As I sat with my gut rotting from recently ingested water or food, Selena entered the river to gauge the deepness. Zebulon shimmed across a destroyed bridge line to the other side of the river to create a Tyrolean traverse. We shuttled our 90kg duffles and backpacks over before crossing the river on foot and soaking ourselves.



Two months before our departure, Emilie, Vince and I had decided that our team would need at least one or two more members in case one of us got hurt and the other two couldn’t begin the traverse. We had recruited Zebulon Blais, a guide on Mount Rainier with numerous Denali expeditions under his belt, and Selena Cordeau, a glaciologist and expedition cook who’d completed several sizeable ski traverses. Their experience was obvious and we were happy to have them on board, despite only having travelled less than a kilometre on our first day.

#### Day 15 of 29: May 14 (4800m)
*Whumpf…* “Avalanche! Avalanche!” yelled Zeb. I watched his yellow jacket sliding down about 10–12m to the left of me. The slab continued to propagate, hitting Vince. Emelie had been standing next to me on the track digging a hasty pit, now she began traversing away quickly from the slide path. I took my eyes off of Zeb’s yellow jacket, flipped a 180 and began descending in touring mode with my ski crampons.

As I stopped, Emelie raced back towards the slide path and yelled for everyone to switch their transceivers to search mode. Selena, the most downhill of the group, raced up towards Vince, who screamed he was fine and to go find Zeb.

We spotted a hand wiggling its fingers in the debris. Zeb had raised his arm in a desperate effort to fight the snow as it slowed and solidified around him. Emelie and Selena dug his face free with their bare hands, and Selena and I dropped down to the side of his body to quickly dig in a conveyor belt fashion. As Emelie protected Zeb’s face, he gasped for air. Selena and I cleared his body, removed his backpack and checked him for injuries from head to toe. Zeb was unharmed but cold and shaken.

We found his skis and poles a metre deep in the debris and quickly gathered our gear to return to Camp 7. Having left camp at 5:00am with -25°C and no formal breakfast, we headed to the kitchen tent to eat, evaluate the incident and examine the human factors that lead to this incident. We had already skied two days of 20-degree slopes and decided that risking our group on any steeper terrain this deep in the Pamirs would be frivolous. Our dreams of first descents were beaten.



#### Day 22 of 29: May 21 (5500m)
After four days of bad weather, and being tent-bound reading our books backwards, we awoke at 6:30am to sun shining on our tents. It was our window, our “go time.” We rallied a quick breakfast, put on our skins, grabbed our day kits and started skinning fast in frigid temperatures.



Again, I felt so little. As we reached the fork at the end of the Fedchenko Glacier, 6940-m Independence Peak (formerly Peak Revolution) towered above us. Team Flow smiled and took a group picture before Selena retreated back to Camp 8. She’d been plagued with symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness for almost ten days with our altitude above 4000m, and Diamox offered her little help.

The four of us continued on to ascend a col to the west. At our high point of 5500m, we looked down the Yazgulom Valley to another vast glacier and endless high peaks of the Pamir Range.



#### Day 28 of 29: May 27 (3900m)
We awoke at 5:00am, had a quick breakfast, and set off back up the Tanimas Valley. Our backpacks were empty and we had one final load to retrieve before settling back into Kok Jar Pass for the night to wait for our pick up from Pamir Guides the next morning.

My biggest challenges were at the beginning and the end, where we were forced to carry the weight all on our backs. Off the glaciers, we couldn’t use our sleds due to talus, scree and crevasses. On day six, I broke down and sobbed my first tears to Vince, and he gave me a reassuring hug. I hadn’t expected to walk in running shoes over scree for days, carrying all my load. I told him my body ached and that I wanted to go home.

Now, near the end of our journey, Vince and I made a pact to retrieve our final load by 11:00am. I got there at 10:55am, loaded my pack, traded my last salami with Emelie in exchange for some Clif Shot Bloks, and started to shuffle over rocks and plunge through the river crossing with my final 27kg of gear. I was amazed to see goshawks flying in the air, ibex scaling the sides of mountains, and rusted tin cans in the dirt, all signs that we were no longer so far from civilization.

Both Vince and I were reaching exhaustion and we knew we’d each lost about 4.5kg, but the last section continued to test us.

In the final 10km of our 43km day, the wind picked up and tried to blow us back up to the Fedchenko. On our last river crossing, I was almost swept away because the bottom of my sled got caught by the swift water and nearly flipped me on my back. Vince threw me his ski pole and pulled me to shore, where we rested and ate our last few Clif shots. Then, with Camp 13 in sight, we got hit by a big dust storm, followed by a torrential downpour.



We dragged ourselves into camp, wet and exhausted. We could see the road on the mountain side and knew that another SUV would greet us with the next sunrise.

Vince gave me a big hug and said, “We’re going home Holly, we’re going home.”

*Photography and video by [Vince Shuley](http://www.vinceshuley.com/).**Skier and writer [Holly Walker](http://www.hollywalker.ca/) lives in Whistler when she’s not travelling in search of perfect pow. She is sponsored by Mammut, K2 Skis, Clif Bar, Smith, POW and Mons Royale.*

*The Fedchenko Expedition was made possible with grants from the [MEC Expedition Support Fund](/en/explore/expedition-support), [Alpine Club of Canada Jen Higgins Fund](http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/community/financial-grants/) and [Polartec Challenge Grant](http://polartec.com/). Additional expedition sponsors include [inReach Canada](http://www.inreachcanada.com/), [Goal Zero](http://www.goalzero.com/), [Clif Bar](http://www.clifbar.ca/), [Darn Tough Socks ](http://darntough.com/)and [Beal Ropes](http://www.beal-planet.com/). Over 135kg of clothing donations to villagers in the GBAP was made possible by MEC, [Whistler Blackcomb](http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com/) and the kind people of Tahoe and Whistler. Special thanks to [Pamir Guides](http://www.pamirguides.com/) / Saidali Gaidbuldaev for ground transportation and logistics and to Sebastian Tallent for Pamir weather updates.*



Flow of the Fedchenko | MEC Blog

Flow of the Fedchenko

Biking is one of the best ways to see Europe’s ancient towns, rolling vineyards and historic castles. And of course, any good riding holiday should include great food and wine. Beaune, France has it all. I took a couple of riders from *Canadian Cyclist* magazine for a tour of my top places to bike around Burgundy.

It was quite by chance that [Burgundy](http://www.burgundy-tourism.com/) became one of my favourite spots to ride. In the late 1980s, I was trying to get back into race shape after an injury and had the idea to get in my miles in Europe. I sold a bike, cashed in savings from working in a bike shop, and headed to Amsterdam. The plan was to ride to the south of France, then to London, and be home in Winnipeg by mid-July.

Instead, I ended up staying for three years.

I got a job as a bike mechanic in [Beaune, France](http://www.beaune-tourism.com/), and travelled around Europe with my bike. Since then, Beaune has always been a special place to me and it has some of the most diverse riding anywhere (along with some of the world’s best food and wine). So when Sam and Chris from *Canadian Cyclist* magazine asked if I could show them around Beaune for a few days before [Eurobike](http://www.eurobike-show.com/eb-en/), I couldn’t refuse.

I brought my own bike from Vancouver with the [EVOC bike bag](/en/product/5038-450/Bike-Travel-Bag). For trips like this, I like having my own bike. It just feels like home and it’s always worth the effort it takes to travel with. The good folks at Ridley Bikes hooked Sam and Chris up with a couple of lightweight 2015 Ultegra-equipped Ridley Helium bikes for this trip. The Helium has a sub-1000-gram frame but is still compliant and comfortable, which is really important for long days in the saddle on the back roads of France.



The three of us met in Beaune, and even though we were a bit jet-lagged it was too nice a day not to go for a short warm-up ride to work the cobwebs out. The traditional first ride for me in Beaune has always been out to [La Rochepot](http://www.larochepot.com/), a medieval castle built in the thirteenth century and then rebuilt in the nineteenth century after the French Revolution.



The ride starts off on paths through the [Beaune](http://www.bourgogne-wines.com/our-wines-our-terroir/all-bourgogne-wines/beaune,2459,9254.html?&args=Y29tcF9pZD0xNDUyJmFjdGlvbj12aWV3RmljaGUmaWQ9MjE4Jnw%3D) and [Pommard](http://www.bourgogne-wines.com/our-wines-our-terroir/all-bourgogne-wines/pommard,2459,9254.html?&args=Y29tcF9pZD0xNDUyJmFjdGlvbj12aWV3RmljaGUmaWQ9MzcwJnw%3D) vineyards, then a bit of climbing takes you to a ripping descent though the town of d’Orches and on to La Rochepot. After stopping to see the castle and snapping some pics, we rode back to Beaune through the vineyards of [Puligny-Montrachet ](http://www.bourgogne-wines.com/our-wines-our-terroir/all-bourgogne-wines/puligny-montrachet,2459,9254.html?&args=Y29tcF9pZD0xNDUyJmFjdGlvbj12aWV3RmljaGUmaWQ9Mzc4Jnw%3D)and [Meursault](http://www.bourgogne-wines.com/our-wines-our-terroir/all-bourgogne-wines/meursault,2459,9254.html?&args=Y29tcF9pZD0xNDUyJmFjdGlvbj12aWV3RmljaGUmaWQ9MzQ5Jnw%3D), home of some of the best white wines in the world. Beaune is the centre of the Burgundy wine trade, and one of the highlights for me here is tasting wines that I’d never be able to get in Canada.





The meeting place in Beaune is always the Grand Café, a busy traditional café in the centre of town. So the next morning, we met there for breakfast, had their specialty – a Grand Crème, a tasty coffee with warm cream – and went over the days’ route, which is one I look forward to every time I’m in Burgundy.



The route heads towards [Dijon](http://www.burgundy-tourism.com/discover/towns-and-villages/VILLEBOU000000HO/detail/dijon/dijon) through [Pernand-Vergelesses](http://www.bourgogne-info.eu/html/pernand_vergelesses.html), and then goes up a steep climb to the top of the Côte through the village of Échevronne. After that, the route winds through the Burgundy countryside to Pont-de-Pany. Like all rides through this area, you’re never more than a few kilometres from a town, there’s never a chance of running out of water, and your next available coffee stop is always close.

The best part of this ride is stopping in [Châteauneuf-en-Auxois](http://www.burgundy-tourism.com/discover/must-see-tourist-attractions/INCONBOU000V50021U/detail/chateauneuf-en-auxois/chateauneuf-en-auxois), a hilltop fortress built in the fifteenth century with some fascinating history. A café in the central square is the perfect lunch spot; there’s nothing better than having lunch surrounded by a fifteenth-century fortress. After lunch it’s up and over the Côte and through a valley back to Beaune for a 110km day.

When I told Sam and Chris about the riding, I sold it as rolling countryside. After a couple of days of riding, they were pretty convinced it’s just plain hilly. I guess I have to agree.





Day three was a bit shorter to leave some time for exploring Beaune and wine tasting. We went up and down the Côte twice – just to confirm that is indeed hilly – and spent time walking around Beaune and wine tasting. One of the spots we went to was Patriarche Père et Fils. They have the largest cave in Beaune and for 16€ you can walk through kilometres of vaults and taste 16 different wines, including some Premier Crus.



That evening, we went to Le Montrachet, a one-star Michelin restaurant. Going there is an event – the food and service are impeccable. (If you ever get the chance to eat there, do it – you won’t be disappointed.) This meal capped off a few days of decadent eating, from a traditional Burgundy meal at Le Gourmandin to a twist on French fare with an Italian chef at Les Popiettes, along with lots of wine tasting. We needed a long ride to burn off some calories.



After a few 10am Grand Crèmes at Le Grand, we started our final day of riding. Up and over the Côte (again) then through the Burgundy countryside to Autun, a town that dates back to Roman times. In one 50km section of riding, we only saw five cars and rode through countless ancient towns. Each one is like a postcard and perfectly kept, and it’s clear the residents take tremendous pride in their little corner of France. We weren’t in a hurry and stopped to check out churches and châteaux along the route. In Autun, a pizza restaurant at the base of the cathedral was the perfect spot for lunch and a glass of wine. After a cathedral visit, we headed back to Beaune to end off a challenging 125km day.



Over dinner that night, we toasted Burgundy for being such a good host, and tasted wines from towns we’d spent the last four days riding through. I’ve been lucky enough to ride my bike all over the world, and Burgundy remains my favourite. It may not have the iconic climbs from the Tour de Giro and days aren’t necessarily “epic,” but it does have a beautiful countryside with a maze of roads perfect for cycling. If anyone ever needs a tour guide for Beaune, I’m in.



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