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Outdoor Tips, Tricks, Inspiration and Activities | MEC Blog

I grew up in the leafy Toronto suburbs during the eighties, an era of feathered hair, tight jeans and Tears for Fears. Back then, the world seemed an impossibly large and mysterious place. Just catching the subway to Yonge and Bloor felt like a serious expedition, requiring an Adidas bag, lumberjack jacket and Kodiaks.

On summer holidays, when my father lashed canoes to the roof of our family station wagon and we set off northward to the lapping lakes and windblown pines of Algonquin, we might as well have been departing for another continent – this was the stuff of great explorers; the stuff of dreams.



During those formative years, my most important lesson came from an impromptu sermon delivered by my lanky, pocket-protector-wearing physics teacher. Our class had been tossing weights into the air, using ticker tape to measure acceleration due to gravity, when Mr. K. overheard someone grumble that they couldn’t attend the upcoming school gala – a sweaty dance party to be held in the school cafeteria – because they had too much homework.

“Too much homework?” Mr K. bellowed, his face turning red. Our classroom fell silent as he launched into a diatribe. “You should avoid the habit of putting off fun, or anything else important for that matter, in the belief you can save it up for later. Life doesn’t work that way.

“Right now, you probably think you only have to study hard for a few years, get into a good university, and then you can start having fun. But once you arrive at university, you’ll decide to put off fun a little longer, so you can graduate top of class and get a good job.

> “Then you’ll put it off again, until you get a promotion. Then until after kids. Then until you retire. And one day you’ll turn 65 and think: *At last, it’s time for me to have fun*. Then you’ll die.”
>
With that, Mr. K. collapsed in his chair.

In the silence that followed, our class awkwardly resumed our experiment. But his words stuck with me – and changed the course of my life.



In the decades that followed, I’ve been blessed with the opportunity to criss-cross the globe as a writer, photographer and adventurer on journeys that have taken me from Mount Everest to Arabia, from Africa to the high Arctic. I’ve traversed Iceland by foot, Mongolia by horse, and paddled Greenland’s coast in a sea kayak. Recently, I took my young family on an overland journey from our home in British Columbia to a Himalayan monastery, where we spent three months living with Buddhist lamas.



I’m often asked for “top travel tips,” and while a multitude of ideas spring to mind – think big, go longer, take less, seek locals, be careful (but not paranoid), plan less (leaving space for serendipity), don’t be afraid to try a new location – the most fundamental piece of travel advice I can share comes from Mr. K.:

> Never put off until tomorrow the trip you can launch today.
>


This is not easy advice to follow, for as life grows busier and time becomes scarcer, travel dreams too often fall prey to the* “as-soon-as”*syndrome: As soon as I pay off the mortgage, top up my RRSP, re-roof the house, or do whatever. Each and every year in Canada, millions upon millions of vacation days go unclaimed. I would encourage you to avoid such delays and hit the road at any and every opportunity.



I trust in travel as an elemental force for good; a boundless source of hope and possibility. Whether wandering through rainforests, up crystalline peaks, or into unfamiliar nooks in our own backyard, travel reminds us of the vast, complex and richly diverse nature of our small planet. Along the way, we cultivate friendships and understanding for strangers with backgrounds, histories and beliefs different than our own – reaffirming humanity’s essential sameness.

Of course, life on the road is not always easy. With its randomness and unpredictability, travel demands a grit too often missing in our modern lives. But this is a good thing, and as our possessions are pared to the essentials, we live more simply and, in the eternal words of Proust, come to see the world with new eyes.



As Pico Iyer eloquently writes, “We travel, initially, to lose ourselves; and we travel, next, to find ourselves. We travel to open our hearts and eyes and learn more about the world than our newspapers will accommodate… And we travel, in essence, to become young fools again – to slow time down and get taken in, and fall in love once more.”



In this way, the whole magical process brings us back to Mr. K. and his simple maxim: No matter what travel you dream of – an African safari, climbing Kilimanjaro or trekking to Everest Base Camp – don’t wait until it’s too late. Rather, start planning today. Put pennies aside. Book tickets. Mark the calendar. There are only so many tomorrows. Go now.



## Related articles
- [16 rad travel hacks from adventurous Canadians](/en/article/16-rad-travel-hacks-from-adventurous-canadians)
- [The ultimate travel pants](/en/article/the-ultimate-travel-pants)
- [Travel packing checklist](/en/explore/travel-checklist)



Some words can stick with you – and change the course of your life.

The best time to travel is always now | By Bruce Kirkby

The time to travel is always now

Telling people you’ve hiked to Everest Base Camp (EBC) in Nepal can be… interesting. Many people will think you’re the coolest outdoor adventurer they know. Some, despite your heavy emphasis on *base camp*, will even think that you’ve climbed Everest – the entire mountain. Edmund-Hillary style.

Regardless, saying you’ve stood at the foot of the world’s largest peak will never get old. I’ve done this trek as part of a small group tour, and I’m not exaggerating when I say it’s one of the top trips I’ve done. And while it’s an experience you can’t fully understand until you’ve done it, there are a few things you should know before you go.

## What to expect


Hiking to Everest Base Camp is unlike anything else. You’ll be (comfortably) pushed to your physical limits and humbled by absolutely monstrous mountain peaks. It’s a trip where every moment has the power to surprise you, whether it’s finding a mountainside temple or stumbling upon a brigade of yaks.

### Technical climbing experience not required
It’s a physically-challenging trek, not a technical one. You won’t need to wield an ice axe or wear crampons, but you will need to be sure-footed, especially in the final (sometimes icy) kilometres. Most of your days will be spent climbing forested inclines or meandering along mountain passes – and crossing some pretty impressive suspension bridges. It sounds easy, but the higher altitude makes it more challenging than the terrain you’re used to at home.

### Tea houses and trekking lodges
I had certain notions about sleeping conditions before I made my way to Nepal, none of which included the cozy movie nights I would share with my trekking crew. The entire length of the trek to Everest Base Camp is inhabited to a certain degree, so you can sleep in tea houses or trekking lodges along the way. These are complete with beds (some tea houses provide the mattress and you bring your own sleeping bag, while others provide a full sleeping set-up) and, true to name, serve some of the best tea I’ve ever had.



### A different vantage point
Once you arrive, it’s less about viewing the mountain and more about experiencing it – feeling a sense of accomplishment and community – which is good because you won’t have a decent view of the peak from base camp anyway. Don’t worry though. There are plenty of opportunities to see Everest in all its snow-sheathed glory at other points throughout the trek.

### Strength in numbers
Some people will hike to Everest Base Camp alone or in pairs, but going with a small tour group is a great option. You’ll have guides who set an optimum pace for high-altitude trekking, and fellow travellers to connect with while you sip Masala tea in the evening.

### Preparing for takeoff
Flying to the trek’s starting point in Lukla is epic – snag a seat on the left side of the plane to get the best views – but it can also be unpredictable. Flights are often cancelled due to weather, so make sure you have a few days to spare in Kathmandu. You don’t want to risk missing your flight back home!



### Tips and field notes:
- Spring and fall are great times to trek. If you happen to plan your trip around climbing season (late April/early May), you’ll see a bustling tent city when you arrive at base camp.
- Most tea houses will have extra blankets on hand for super-cold nights, and some have heated blankets or hot water bottles.
- You’ll see a lot of vegetarian options served at meals. It’s recommended you don’t eat meat while hiking to EBC since it has to travel for days by yak from lower altitudes (so it may not be at its freshest).
- Prices rise with the altitude, so buy snacks and other supplies sooner rather than later.
- Bring a book, journal or pack of cards. You’ll have a lot of downtime during the evenings and acclimatization days.
- Keep your gear (and electronics!) in your sleeping bag overnight to ensure everything’s warm for the next day.

## How to prepare for Everest base camp
The effort you put into training before you arrive is worth it – trust me.



### No train, no gain
For at least three to four months prior, you should spend a considerable amount of time on a stairmaster or treadmill with a significant incline. The EBC trek is about mental perseverance just as much as it is about physical endurance though – it can be hard to adjust to the high altitude, so make sure your body *and* mind are prepared.

### High expectations
It’s recommended that first-time trekkers who have no experience at high altitude take Diamox to help with the symptoms (which can vary from slight headaches to more severe dizziness and nausea). Always remember to consult your doctor first to see what they suggest for you. And since it’s a diuretic, be prepared for additional bathroom trips, which can be quite rugged in the mountains.

## Packing tips for Everest base camp
For all the packing details, check out the official packing list from your tour operator. Here are a few of the most helpful pieces of gear I had along:

#### Daypack
On most small group tours, porters will take care of your [sleeping bag](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/sleeping-bags-and-pillows/c/1405) and [pad](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/sleeping-pads/c/1416), but you’ll need to carry everything else that you need to access during the day, like snacks and additional layers, in a [20–35L daypack](/en/products/packs-and-bags/daypacks-and-school-bags/daypacks/c/1333?f=idealForSelect%3ACamping+and+hiking%3ACFPacksVolume%3A20+to+29+L).

#### Quality layers
[Merino base layers](/en/products/clothing/base-layers-and-underwear/base-layers-and-underwear/c/273?f=CFfabricContent%3AMerino+wool&b=100-1549-1651-604) are great for keeping warm and wicking away sweat, and a [down puffy jacket](/en/products/clothing/jackets/insulated-jackets/down-insulated-jackets/c/1022) (plus a [waterproof-breathable shell](/en/products/clothing/jackets/rain-jackets/c/1025?f=CFIdealForSimple%3ACamping+and+hiking)) will be necessary to protect you from the elements. Mountain weather is notoriously temperamental – it’s not uncommon to experience all four seasons in one day.

#### Water system
If treated water isn’t provided by your group tour, then you’ll need a water-filtration system. [Tablets](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/kitchen-and-hydration/water-bottles-and-water-treatment/water-filters-treatment-and-tablets/water-treatments-and-tablets/c/1243) are definitely easiest as they can be put right into your [water bladder](/en/products/packs-and-bags/hydration-packs-and-accessories/bladders-reservoirs-and-accessories/c/1229?b=100-1552-291-640) or [Nalgene](/en/products/travel-gear/travel-accessories/water-bottles/c/1233?filters%5Bbrand%5D%5B0%5D=nalgene). You can find tablets in Kathmandu, but it’s best if you stock up before leaving home.

#### A few types of footwear
Solid [hiking boots](/en/products/footwear/boots/hiking-boots/c/1497) are the most obvious packing choice – make sure they’re sturdy, well-broken in and you’ve worn them lots before. You should walk around in them for at least a month before your trip.

[Flip flops](/en/products/footwear/sandals/flip-flops/c/1523) or [lightweight sandals](/en/products/footwear/sandals/c/1192) might not seem like the most sensible thing to pack for a mountain trekking trip, but the weather can be quite warm when you’re stationed at Lukla, and you’ll be happy to have them on hand.

[Hut booties](/en/product/5055-859/Hut-Bootie). Bring them. Trust me.



## Related articles
- [How to choose hiking boots](/en/explore/how-to-choose-hiking-boots-or-shoes)
- [Clothing layers: how to stay warm](/en/explore/clothing-layers)
- [How wash a down jacket](/en/explore/how-to-wash-a-down-jacket)



Everything you need to know about hiking to the south base camp in Nepal. Saying you’ve stood at the foot of the world’s largest peak will never get old.

Trekking to Everest Base Camp? Read this first

When the urge to travel hits, pay attention. A little wanderlust could be a sign that that you’ve been getting a little *too* comfortable in your routine and it’s time to challenge (and maybe even humble) yourself with a new experience. Travel is a way to grow, to learn and to gain perspective – so where to next?

We’ve rounded up 9 destinations that are catching the eyes of travellers as top places to visit in 2019, or are bucket-list experiences just waiting to be ticked off this year.

## 1. Sri Lanka
In Lonely Planet’s “Best in Travel 2019,” Sri Lanka snagged the top country spot – so now’s the time to see what it’s all about. It’s not a huge country, so you can cover a lot of ground while you’re there. The Central Highlands’ tea plantations are a famous sea of green that are part of the *Great Global Bucket List* (make sure to have a sip while you’re there), but there’s more to Sri Lanka than tea. Stay in a rainforest eco-lodge, bike to the ruins at Anuradhapura, or catch waves on the beaches of Hikkaduwa.

## 2. Northern Lights in Canada


Part of what makes seeing the Northern Lights so special is that they’re not guaranteed; there’s even an [aurora forecast](http://www.auroraforecast.com/) to help with predictions. You’ll need to head to the high-latitude regions for a chance to see them. Two prime spots are Yellowknife (NWT) and Whitehorse (Yukon) from mid-August through to mid-April. Stay at a remote lodge far away from the city lights, and pair your visit with snowshoeing, a visit to the Takhini Hotsprings, and a campfire with s’mores.

## 3. Morocco


Morocco’s Atlantic Coast made Fodor’s 2019 Go List, and you might be surprised to find sweet right-hand surf breaks dotting the coastline near towns like Essaouria (west of Marrakech) and Taghazout. For most people, though, deserts are what they picture when they imagine Morocco; if you’ve ever wanted to ride a camel in the desert (at sunset, perhaps?), this is the place to make it happen. Eating slow-cooked tagine meals, hiking in the Atlas Mountains, and visiting action-packed markets like Djemaa El Fna in Marrakech are just a few of the must-do experiences. Make sure to include littler-known Meknès in your visit – it’s one of Lonely Planet’s top cities for 2019.

## 4. Colombia


A lot has changed in Colombia over the last few years, and this country is now on travellers’ radars. Visitors have a huge range of landscapes to explore – everything from Caribbean coastal cities and tropical rainforests to grassy plains and snowy peaks. With so much variety, how do you decide where to go? A couple of ideas: Fodor named the old city of Cartagena (in the north) on their 2019 Go List, and San Gil is known as the adventure capital of Colombia, with whitewater rafting, bungee jumping, mountain biking and paragliding. From a practical standpoint, it’s also got some logistical benefits, which is why Travelzoo included Colombia on their list of “2019 best bets: where Canadians should travel next.”

## 5. Grand Canyon National Park
Happy birthday, Grand Canyon National Park! This park turns 100 in 2019, which is an adorable blip in the existence of the 6-million-year-old Grand Canyon itself. When you go, take the time to hike into the actual canyon. Most people snap photos of the view from above, but to really experience the inner canyon, hike on of the park’s Corridor trails, like Bright Angel, South Kaibab or North Kaibab, and stay overnight at one of the campgrounds.

> “I love the Grand Canyon,” said MEC Ambassador Bruce Kirkby, “It’s such an iconic spot in North America.”
>
Bruce has been to more than 80 countries, so he’s one to trust when it comes to calling something iconic.

## 6. Everest Base Camp


Everest Base Camp isn’t a casual hike. It takes time to acclimatize, you’re dealing with altitude, and there’s plenty of prep to tackle before you even arrive. But all that effort is what makes the achievement of reaching Base Camp worth it – this is a trek that’ll change you. The word “epic” gets tossed around a lot in travel writing, but the scenery here is one place where it’s actually justified. When you’re done your trek, take time to take in Kathmandu – it’s on Lonely Planet’s top cities list for 2019.

## 8. Mount Kilimanjaro


It’s the tallest peak in Africa, and you could be on top of it to watch the sunrise from the summit. It’s a physically and mentally challenging trek to the top, and it might make you wonder: is it worth the time and energy? If you ask anyone who’s done it, the answer is likely going to be a big yes. Conquering Kilimanjaro is on the Telegraph’s list of “greatest travel adventures in the world” and it’s a bucket-list experience for many people.

## 9. New Zealand


Is it the mountains and black sand beaches? The glow-worm caves and glaciers? Some of the best stargazing on earth or the adventure-country reputation? Whatever the draw, people are clearly pumped about travelling to NZ. Airbnb has Kaikoura (on the South Island) on its list of “trending destinations for 2019,” and the South Island is also home to Kawarau Bridge, the birthplace of modern bungee jumping, which is on Condé Nast Traveler’s “adventures to have in a lifetime” list.

If you can, carve out some time to explore somewhere new this year. A mega adventure is bound to change the way you look at the world, but even a mini-adventure can shake up your routine and your outlook.

*Top photo: Panoramic Milky Way at Lake Pukaki, NZ, part of the Aoraki Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve.*



## Related articles
- [The best time to travel is always now](/en/article/the-time-to-travel-is-always-now), by adventurer and MEC Ambassador Bruce Kirkby
- [Travel checklist](/en/explore/travel-checklist)
- [The ultimate travel pants](/en/article/the-ultimate-travel-pants)



Have you been to any of these destinations? A little wanderlust could be a sign that it’s time to plan an adventure. Here are the best places to go in 2019.

The best places to travel in 2019 for unique adventures

Patagonia had been on my bucket list for quite some time, so a friend and I travelled far south to this famously rugged region shared by Chile and Argentina. The challenging trek we did was well worthwhile. Even as seasoned hikers, it was our first time hiking past icebergs, drinking from glacier streams and watching condors soar above our heads.

Our trip took a lot of preparation, but we came back with even more advice for other travellers going to the region. If you’re planning a trip to Patagonia, be sure to keep these tips in mind.

### Where and when to go


Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park is one of the most popular trekking destinations in Patagonia. Its moderate trails with limited elevation gain make it ideal for hikers of all skill levels looking for multi-day routes. It’s quite possible to meet other like-minded adventurers on these trails too.

Patagonian summers stretch from November to March, which makes this an ideal time to visit. January, the peak of Patagonia’s summer, sees on average 16 hours of sunlight per day and temps up to 20°C.

### Choosing a circuit
Choosing your circuit in Patagonia involves a few factors. You should take into account how long you’re going and how much gear you’ll be bringing. I can personally recommend the full “O” circuit or shorter “W” circuit in Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park, two circuits named for their shapes on a map.

The O circuit takes 6 to 10 days and covers around 110km. This trail is nearly twice as long as the W route, and sees only a fraction of the amount of hikers, so you can enjoy its other-worldly landscapes in near solitude.

For beginners or travellers with limited time, the W route is the best option; it takes four to five days and covers 60+km. This route passes more directly through the stunning Cordillera del Paine mountain range.

Regardless of the route you choose, the journey will likely involve some highs and lows. The rocky ridge trail to the Grey Glacier was difficult and left us with inevitable blisters, but the sight of the colossal glacier and the photo ops made us momentarily forget our aching feet and sore muscles.



### Where to stay
Once you’ve chosen your route, be sure to book your campsites in advance, which you can easily do online. If you don’t feel comfortable camping the entire time, you can always make reservations at the hotels (refugios). Either way, you’ll get to experience an amazing multi-day hike while taking in Torres des Paine’s glacial lakes, rivers and granite peaks.

### What to bring
You’ll need to decide whether you’re bringing your own gear, renting or doing a combo of both. If you don’t own everything, you can rent gear before you leave or when you arrive in the gateway towns of Puerto Natales (Chile) and El Chaltén (Argentina).

We found that sleeping bags, mats, down jackets and cooking supplies were all available to rent in town. You can also rent tents but keep in mind that they’ve been used by numerous campers and may not withstand heavy rainfall. To play it safe, you should consider bringing your own [lightweight option](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/camping-tents-tarps-and-bivies/tents/c/1449?filters%5Bcustom_fields.ideal%20for%5D%5B0%5D=backpacking).

You don’t need a reservation for rentals, but remember that many stores will likely be closed on Sundays. We made the mistake of arriving late to the rental shops and the majority had run out of gear. We ended up wasting a bit of time trying to find what we needed in El Chaltén. (Lesson learned!)

Packing for a trek like ours involved a bit of strategizing so that we could always reach our essentials. My advice for organizing your gear:

- Pack your rain cover, waterproof layers, energy bars, first aid kit, moleskin and other emergency items somewhere easily accessible in your pack.
- Put everything in plastic bags to provide an extra layer of protection, as the weather can change rapidly from sun to rain to snow within the same day.
- Your vulnerable items, such as cameras or notebooks, should go inside a more [reliable dry bag](/en/products/watersports/canoeing/dry-bags/c/1358) (which you can also use to hang your food up at night).
- … and don’t leave any food in your pockets or tent unless you want late-night rodents to chew holes through your gear and steal your snacks.

### Patagonia packing checklist:
Check out this [backpacking checklist](/en/explore/backpacking-checklist) and make sure to include some Patagonia-specific items:

- A [quality backpack](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/packs-and-bags/backpacking-packs/c/1338) and [rain cover](/en/ideal-for/backpacking/products/packs-and-bags/pack-accessories/rain-covers-and-pack-liners/c/1344). Caution: your rain cover may turn into an unexpected kite or parachute due to the powerful Patagonian winds.
- Waterproof-breathable outer layers and a compact insulated layer (the [Uplink jacket](/en/products/run-and-fitness/clothing/running-and-fitness-jackets/c/1026?filters%5Bbrand%5D%5B0%5D=mec&filters%5Bcustom_fields.features%5D%5B0%5D=stuffs%20in%20own%20pocket) is great for Patagonian summer evenings and sunrise hikes). If you visit closer to March, you may want a [warm down jacket](/en/products/clothing/jackets/insulated-jackets/down-insulated-jackets/c/1022) as nights get cooler.
- Well-fitting [hiking boots](/en/products/footwear/boots/hiking-boots/c/1497) and [good hiking socks](/en/products/footwear/socks/hiking-socks/c/1518). Talk to MEC staff about boot fitting and make sure your boots are broken in.
- Comfy shoes for the campsite.
- [Moleskin](/en/product/5029-766/Moleskin-Pre-Cut-Blister-Dressings) and [blister care](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/health-and-safety/first-aid-kits-and-supplies/c/279?text=blister). (I treated a blister with pre-cut blister bandages the second I felt it forming – they were a huge help.)
- Sturdy [hiking poles](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/tools-and-accessories/trekking-poles-and-accessories/trekking-poles/c/1798?filters%5Bcustom_fields.ideal%20for%5D%5B0%5D=backpacking) for steep switchbacks and rocky sections – your knees will thank you.
- Chilean and Argentinian cash; it isn’t uncommon for Argentinian ATMs to run out of cash, especially in smaller towns.
- A camera to document the endless natural landscape, and a book for downtime.
- A positive attitude ready on the famously strong winds, unpredictable weather and any travel mishaps.

During our 5-day trek, we hit such heavy rainfalls that Torres del Paine had to temporarily close off certain trails, which rarely happens. Luckily we came prepared with waterproof gear and warm clothing. In the end, we were fortunate to have our trail reopen in time for our early morning sunrise hike to see the jaw-dropping Torres on our very last day. The sun even came out, making those rainy days we had to endure worth the final sense of accomplishment.



## Related articles
- [The time to travel is always now](/en/article/the-time-to-travel-is-always-now), by adventurer and author Bruce Kirkby
- [How to choose hiking boots](/en/explore/how-to-choose-hiking-boots-or-shoes)
- [How to pack a backpack](/en/explore/how-to-pack-a-backpack)

*Top photo: Shutterstock / Olga Danylenko*



Planning a hiking trip in Patagonia? Read these helpful tips for advice on how to make multi-day hike Torres del Paine National Park a success.

A first-timer’s guide to trekking in Patagonia

There are tons of reasons to travel to Peru – the quinoa, the lush green scenery, the llamas, not to mention the Andes. A small group tour is a great way to see it all, especially if you’re going to hike Machu Picchu. Are you ready to explore one of the Seven Wonders of the World?

## Getting to Machu Picchu
You’ve got options when it comes to your hike. There are a few ways you can reach Machu Picchu, and two of them are the famous Inca Trail or the lesser-known Salkantay trek:

### Inca Trail


The Inca Trail, a 43-km trek that takes you through high-altitude jungles, is a bucket-list classic. Hikers who choose this route can expect to climb rugged stairs, walk on sacred pathways and pass through a stone tunnel, usually over four epic days.

**The hike:** Though generally considered moderate, some parts of the hike can be challenging, especially as you gain elevation to reach the highest point of nearly 4200m. On the last day of your hike, plan to wake up before dawn to reach the Sun Gate before sunrise. You’ll forget all about the morning cold and tired feet as you watch the sun stretch over the ancient Incan ruins of Machu Picchu.

**Where you can sleep:** There’s nothing quite like sleeping under the stars on the Inca Trail. With small group tours, you’ll have a team of porters and cooks to carry your gear, prep delicious meals and help with tent set-up and tear-town.



The Salkantay Trek, considered the back road to Machu Picchu, is almost twice as long as the Inca Trail, with most tours lasting five to six days. Since it brings hikers to a higher altitude, it’s more physically demanding – but many people say the scenery is even more impressive than what you see on the Inca Trail, and your chances of spotting wildlife, like foxes and deer, are higher too.

**The hike:** The trek begins with gentle rolling hills, but you’ll face a steep climb towards the peak, where the landscape changes from a village to a full-blown lunar landscape. It’s here that you’ll also get a view of the snow-capped Salkantay and Umantay mountains. From the top, the trek continues (mostly) downhill through thick, lush forests.

**Where you can sleep:** Something that makes the Salkantay a neat experience are the mountain lodges along the trail. Hikers who are looking for a bit more comfort on a multi-day trip can hike from lodge to lodge as part of this journey.

## When to go
April, May, September and October are the best times to hike to Machu Picchu. These months tend to have more moderate temperatures during the day and there will be fewer people wandering the trails and camps.

June, July and August boast the best (read: clear days and hardly any rain) weather, but bring the busiest crowds. The rainy season stretches from November to March, and the Inca Trail is shut down every February for recovery and maintenance; the Salkantay Trek stays open year-round.

## What to know before you go


#### Preparing for the climb
You don’t need to be a world-class athlete to hike Machu Picchu, but both treks require a moderate level of physical fitness. Start training a few months before leaving for Peru, and remember to add strength and conditioning to your cardio workouts to prep for the elevation gain.



#### Preventing altitude sickness
Many doctors will prescribe Acetazolamide (also known as Diamox) to help you keep altitude sickness under control, but the Peruvian locals swear by coca tea and candy – always check with your doctor before you go to see what they recommend for you to hike at high altitudes.

#### Staying hydrated
Altitude and dry mountain air will dehydrate you quickly if you’re not drinking enough water. Water bladders are the best option for hiking, but they can freeze if temperatures drop below zero. For demanding, multi-day treks like these ones, I use a bladder for plain water and a bottle for an electrolyte mix.



#### Maintaining an appetite
Since altitude can slow down your digestive system, you might not be very hungry on the trek, so you need to be extra mindful of maintaining your energy. [Honey Stingers](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/kitchen-and-hydration/food-and-drink/training-food-and-drinks/energy-gels-and-chews/c/1179?filters%5Bbrand%5D%5B0%5D=honey%20stinger) are my personal favourite snack. They’re high in carbohydrates, electrolytes and caffeine – plus they taste great!



## Packing tips for hiking in Peru
A well-packed bag sets you up for a good trip. Here are some pointers:

#### For your feet
Since your feet are your main mode of transportation on a multi-day trek, you’ll want to make sure they’re well-taken care of. Bring:

- Well broken-in waterproof [boots](/en/products/footwear/boots/hiking-boots/c/1497?filters%5Bcustom_fields.features%5D%5B0%5D=waterproof) (the first day of your hike is *not* the time to break in a new pair of boots)
- [Quality hiking socks](/en/products/footwear/socks/hiking-socks/c/1518), and maybe even [liner socks](/en/products/footwear/socks/liner-socks/c/612) – don’t wear cotton socks
- [Blister care](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/health-and-safety/first-aid-kits-and-supplies/first-aid-supplies/c/1211?text=blister) just in case
- [Hut booties](/en/product/5055-859/Hut-Bootie?org_text=hut) or [slip-on sandals](/en/products/footwear/sandals/c/1192) to wear around camp or a lodge after a long day of hiking

#### For your body
Mountain weather is notoriously temperamental. Dress in layers so that you can quickly adapt to whatever mother nature throws at you. Bring:

- A warm [down or synthetic puffy jacket](/en/products/clothing/jackets/insulated-jackets/c/270) that packs down small
- Freshly re-waterproofed [rain gear](/en/products/clothing/jackets/rain-jackets/c/1025?f=CFIdealForSimple%3ACamping+and+hiking) that you can easily slip over your layers
- [Fleece](/en/products/clothing/clothing-accessories/gloves-and-mittens/gloves/c/400) or [waterproof gloves](/en/products/clothing/clothing-accessories/gloves-and-mittens/gloves/c/400?filters%5Bcustom_fields.features%5D%5B0%5D=waterproof&f=CFIdealForSimple%3ACamping+and+hiking) to protect your hands

#### For your head
Apart from your hands, your head and face will be most exposed to the elements. Bring:

- A [toque](/en/products/clothing/clothing-accessories/headwear/toques-and-beanies/c/1000) for cold days and nights
- Wrap-around [sunglasses](/en/products/cycling/sunglasses/c/1171) and [sunscreen](/en/products/travel-gear/sun-protection/sunscreen/c/810) to protect yourself at altitude
- A [neck gaiter](/en/products/clothing/clothing-accessories/headwear/neck-gaiters-and-scarves/c/1001) – wear it over your ears or around your neck for protection against the sun, over your mouth on particularly dusty days, or around your wrist to easily wipe away sweat

#### For your well-being
The basics you need to stay well-fed and well-hydrated as the altitude increases:

- A [water bladder](/en/products/packs-and-bags/hydration-packs-and-accessories/bladders-reservoirs-and-accessories/c/1229?b=100-1552-291-640) (plus one or two reusable [water bottles](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/kitchen-and-hydration/water-bottles-and-travel-mugs/water-bottles/c/1233))
- [Electrolytes](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/kitchen-and-hydration/food-and-drink/drinks/energy-and-recovery-drinks/c/1176) or drink crystals
- [High-calorie snacks](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/kitchen-and-hydration/food-and-drink/snacks-and-energy-bars/c/281) to keep you going



## Related articles
- [How to choose hiking boots or shoes](/en/explore/how-to-choose-hiking-boots-or-shoes)
- [All about clothing layers](/en/explore/clothing-layers)
- [How to choose and fit a backpack](/en/explore/choose-and-fit-a-backpack)



The Inca Trail or the Salkantay Trek – how do you want to get to Machu Picchu?

A beginner’s guide to hiking to Machu Picchu

After stepping off a plane in Costa Rica, it wasn’t long before I heard the words “Pura Vida.” It’s a distinctly Costa Rican expression – used as a greeting, an exclamation, a send-off. And though every local has his or her own idea of what it means, all their definitions seem to convey a common theme: a good, positive, spirited life.

Luckily for them (and for you), Costa Rica is an easy place to embrace la Pura Vida – especially if your idea of a spirited life is an active one. From waterfall rappelling and kayaking to mountain biking and scuba diving, there are a ton of things to do. Here are just a few of my favourite reasons to take a trip to this small-but-lively strip of Central America:

## 1. Playing wildlife bingo


Pack your binoculars. Costa Rica is home to a variety of habitats and ecosystems, so every hike comes with a chance to spot exotic species – scarlet macaws, squirrel monkeys and (my personal favourite) sloths. There are lots of places to spot wildlife, so keep your eyes and ears open wherever you go.

For a unique and colourful bird tour, hop aboard a boat in Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge – it’s a globally significant wetland. Another wildlife hotspot is the famed Corcovado National Park, which is home to a wide variety of species. The park is also filled with coastal and inland hiking trails that will take you over Pacific beaches or through mangrove swamps and rainforests.

## 2. Ziplining through clouds, rappelling down waterfalls
Costa Rica is known for its ecotourism, and the best way to see the landscape is to totally immerse yourself in it. The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, which has 13km of marked and maintained trails, is one of its most popular spots. There’s plenty of wildlife to see during the day (like the colourful quetzal), but I suggest you visit at night with a guide to get a peek at some nocturnal species. You can also take in the view from the treetops with a canopy zip-line tour here (along with other places). It’s the closest I’ve ever come to feeling like I could fly.

Another option? Soak in the landscapes by going waterfall rappelling (a.k.a. canyoneering). You’ll be roped up as you descend rock walls, glide past waterfalls and dunk in natural pools – all while you’re surrounded by rainforest scenery and sounds. There are lots of places to try it out on guided tours.

## 3. Mastering some of the world’s best rapids


Sure, we have rapids in Canada, but Costa Rica is one of the world’s top whitewater rafting destinations. The best of the best are around La Fortuna and Turrialba, where there are two major rivers: Reventazón and Pacuare. When you’re not barrelling through the Pacuare’s Class III and IV rapids, be sure to take in the view. The riverbanks are covered with thick jungle, and there are tons of waterfalls. In calmer waters, you might even want to take a dip – it’s definitely warmer than the water back home!

## 4. Surfing two oceans in a single day


It makes for a long day, but because Costa Rica is so narrow, it’s entirely possible to start your day surfing the Pacific coast and catch your last waves on the Caribbean. The drive between Jacó and Puerto Limón (which includes the Salsa Brava reef break) takes just over five hours, but with so many surf spots, the possibilities are endless. New to the sport? Learners like me love Tamarindo and Santa Teresa, which are both on the Pacific coast – I took a lesson and then stretched it out with an ocean-view yoga class.

**Pro tip:** No matter how eager you are to make it for last-call waves, be careful. The potholes on Costa Rican roads can be dangerous and are often hard to see because of the shadows from overhanging trees. I nearly took the suspension off a little Yaris while rushing to catch the sunset in Santa Teresa (but yes, it was worth it).

## 5. Soaking in volcanic hot springs


After all that adventuring, it’s time for a break – and a soak. Costa Rica is part of the Ring of Fire, so it’s home to several volcanoes. Around La Fortuna, you can relax and recover your sore muscles in one of the area’s many natural hot springs. But if that sounds too chill for you, there are plenty of nearby trails to hike that start on the grounds of the Arenal Observatory Lodge, or you can paddleboard or kayak on Lake Arenal.

¡Pura Vida!

## What to pack for Costa Rica
Regardless of which adventures are calling your name, you’ll need good gear. Here are some items to pack for your activity-packed trip:

- Sturdy [walking shoes](/en/products/footwear/shoes/hiking-shoes/c/1492) or [hiking boots](/en/products/footwear/boots/hiking-boots/c/1497), plus [good quality socks](/en/products/footwear/socks/hiking-socks/c/1518)
- Rain gear ([jacket](/en/products/clothing/jackets/rain-jackets/c/1025?text_redirected=Rain+jackets&org_text=Rain+jacket) and [pants](/en/products/clothing/bottoms/pants/rain-pants/c/1012?text_redirected=Rain+pants&org_text=rain+pants))
- [Warm clothes](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/hiking-clothing/c/604) for highland hiking
- [Binoculars](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/tools-and-accessories/binoculars/c/900) to help you spot sloths, squirrel monkeys and toucans
- Beach and hot springs essentials ([sunscreen](/en/products/travel-gear/sun-protection/sunscreen/c/810), [sun hat](/en/products/clothing/clothing-accessories/headwear/sun-hats/c/998), [swimsuit](/en/products/clothing/swimwear/c/1036), packable [beach towel](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/health-and-safety/bath-and-sanitation-products/towels/c/811))
- [Dry bag](/en/products/watersports/canoeing/dry-bags/c/1358) and a [waterproof case](/en/products/electronics/electronics-cases/c/1128) for your phone or camera – a must for rainforests
- [Reusable water bottle](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/kitchen-and-hydration/water-bottles-and-travel-mugs/c/1563)
- [Insect repellent ](/en/products/camping-and-hiking/health-and-safety/bug-spray-and-bug-nets/bug-spray-and-insect-repellent/c/500)



## Related articles
- [How to stay sun safe](/en/explore/sun-safety)
- [The ultimate travel pants](/en/article/the-ultimate-travel-pants)
- [How to choose hiking boots or shoes](/en/explore/how-to-choose-hiking-boots-or-shoes)



Just a few of my favourite reasons to take a trip to this small-but-lively strip of Central America. Get ready to live la Pura Vida.

5 reasons you’ll want to visit Costa Rica

Growing up in Australia, I’ve always felt a healthy rivalry towards New Zealand. Aussies are raised on jokes that poke fun at our neighbours to the east, and we’re competitive about almost everything, especially sport… except rugby. As any realistic Australian will tell you, “Yeah nah, the Kiwis have us beat there.”

Of course, there’s no genuine hostility. Australians spend just as much time in Queenstown and Wanaka, New Zealand’s adventure capitals, as they do in Whistler and Banff. And after spending two weeks driving around the South Island myself, I’ll admit that when it comes to rugged mountains, alpine hiking trails and outdoor adventures, New Zealand once again has got us beat.

Do you have New Zealand on your travel radar? If you’re heading there from Canada, there’s plenty to do that makes the flight definitely worth it:

## 1. Explore a national park


There are 13 national parks spread across New Zealand’s North and South islands – that’s more than 30,000 square kilometres of wilderness to explore. And each park offers something unique. Abel Tasman National Park is filled with beaches and coves, so a multi-day kayaking adventure is the best way to do it justice. Mount Aspiring National park, on the other hand, is known for its hiking trails and heli-skiing.

Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park, located between Queenstown and Christchurch, is another must-visit. Home to the tallest mountain in New Zealand, this park was used by Sir Edmund Hillary as a training ground before he scaled Mount Everest, and is a great warm up for anyone with plans to hike to Everest Base Camp. There are also many low-key hikes in the park, including the relatively flat Hooker Valley Track, which takes you 5km up the Hooker River to a glacial lake.

## 2. Kayak with dolphins


Located west of Queenstown, Fiordland National Park – which includes the famous Milford Sound – gives you the chance to spend time with New Zealand’s marine life. Go out with a guide or rent a kayak and paddle on clear waters with views of glaciers, waterfalls and the iconic Mitre Peak. If you’re lucky, you might even see a pod of curious dolphins.

## 3. Walk the (great) walk


There are nine “Great Walks” in New Zealand, ranging from 32km to 145km in length. The trails are located across both the North and South Islands, but two of the most popular ones, the Milford Track (53.5km) and the Routeburn Track (32km), can be found just outside of Queenstown. Both hikes have all kinds of alpine views, including waterfalls, deep valleys and rugged peaks. And a bonus: New Zealand lacks the bears of Canada and the snakes of Australia, so you can sleep well under the stars without worrying what the rustling sounds are outside at night.

## 4. Climb a glacier


Franz Josef Glacier and Fox Glacier are remnants of the ice age that carved out New Zealand’s mountains and valleys. Depending on your timeframe and budget, there are two ways to experience them: you can either follow gentle walking tracks to viewing platforms, or you can ride a helicopter to the top of the glacier and actually set foot on the ice. Either way, a visit to these natural wonders is an absolute must.

## 5. Cycle from summit to shore


Linking the Southern Alps to the Pacific Ocean, the epic Alps 2 Ocean (A2O) Cycle Trail is the longest bike route in New Zealand. The trail begins at Aoraki/Mount Cook and takes keen cyclists past great lakes, glacier-carved valleys and a handful of wineries. While the full trail takes anywhere from four to eight days to complete, you can cycle just one section of the A2O to get a taste of what it’s like.

## 6. Visit Middle-earth


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One of the best ways to see the setting of the *Lord of the Rings* trilogy, is to walk the world-famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing. This 19.4km hike takes you past Mount Ngauruhoe, an active volcano that you’ll recognize as Mordor’s Mount Doom. The Department of Conservation has asked that hikers not retrace Frodo’s footsteps to the summit though – the peak is considered sacred, so be sure to stick to the trail.

## 7. Take a giant leap


Queenstown and Wanaka offer countless ways to get your heart racing. In fact, the world’s first permanent commercial bungee site opened near Queenstown in 1988, which means bungee jumping is on most visitors’ to-do lists. If leaping off a bridge doesn’t appeal to you though, there are plenty of other options, like whitewater rafting, jet boating, skydiving, heli-skiing and paragliding.

## Packing tips for New Zealand
Given the variety of activities you can do in New Zealand, use this [travel checklist](/en/explore/travel-checklist) to make sure you’ve got the essentials. Once that’s covered, I suggest you add these items to your bag:

- A good pair of [hiking boots](/en/products/footwear/boots/hiking-boots/c/1497) and a [daypack](/en/products/packs-and-bags/daypacks-and-school-bags/daypacks/c/1333?f=idealForSelect%3ADay+hiking) are essential for any New Zealand trip.
- Planning on taking your camera or phone out in the kayak? You’ll need a [dry bag](/en/products/watersports/canoeing/dry-bags/c/1358).
- It can get chilly on the glaciers, so be sure to pack a [warm puffy jacket](/en/products/clothing/jackets/insulated-jackets/c/270).
- Even in summer, the nights are cool in the alpine regions. Bring some quality [base layers](/en/products/clothing/base-layers-and-underwear/base-layers-and-underwear/c/273) to make it easy to adapt to changing temps.



## Related articles
- [How to choose hiking boots or shoes](/en/explore/how-to-choose-hiking-boots-or-shoes)
- [The ultimate travel pants](/en/article/the-ultimate-travel-pants)
- [All about clothing layers](/en/explore/clothing-layers)



See what activities you should fit into your trip. Bungee jumping, glacier walks, hiking to Mount Doom – you can do it all in NZ.

7 must-do outdoor adventures in New Zealand

*MEC Ambassador [Louis Rousseau](https://vimeo.com/241918025) shares the story of an expedition in April and May 2017 with climbing partners Adam Bielecki (Poland), Rick Allen (Scotland) and Felix Berg (Germany). Written by Rick and Louis, with collaboration from Adam and Felix.*

## Video: Annapurna One


Annapurna One - Movie

## The story behind our attempt
Everything started in spring 2017. We’d planned to open a new route in alpine style (no fixed ropes, no supplemental oxygen, self-supported) on the north face of Cho Oyu in the Himalayan mountain range – the sixth-highest summit in the world.



Among the eight-thousanders (mountains above 8000m), Cho Oyu is generally considered the easiest to climb – if you go the normal route. But scaling the north or south face is a different story. The north face is steeper than Everest’s north face (45°) and about even with K2’s or Dhaulagiri’s north faces (+50°). In 1988, a [Slovenian team climbed the north face of Cho Oyu](http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199835202/Asia-Tibet-Cho-Oyu-New-Route) for the first time.

Since then, there have been only two other successes on the north side. With some research and help from members of the 1988 expedition, Louis put together a plan to establish a new line on the north face in the middle of the 4km-wide wall that’s about 2000m high, and invited Adam, Rick and Felix to join him.



## Rough start for the dream team
Before we started the expedition, a perfect storm of professional, personal and bureaucratic obligations put an end to our Cho Oyu plans. Our original expedition plan to the far end of the world ended before it even kicked off, but we wouldn’t let this setback stop us.

Since we were already in Katmandu, we sat in the hotel garden with a laptop and looked for a new line that would inspire us. What about Annapurna? According to the accident stats, it’s the most dangerous 8000m peak. But what about the northwestern flank? It was steep with mixed ice, snow and rock, but relatively safe.

So we made a new plan: the great Annapurna, 8000m, climbed for the first time in 1950. It inspired generations of climbers. We were on our way, smiling and highly motivated as the Cho Oyu dream slowly faded away.



Annapurna was our new goal, but we needed another mountain to acclimatize if we wanted to summit in true alpine style. We scanned the map to find a 7000m peak close to our main objective, something with a gentler slope where we could get in time with our ice axes and crampons, and also multiply our precious red blood cells to prepare for altitude. Tilicho Peak, at 7134m, had a ridge at 6200m followed by a long safe climb to the summit. This was going to be our prep for Annupurna.

## Getting to know Tilicho
We were relieved to leave Katmandu for the mountains with our new plan. It took 10 hours on a bumpy bus ride to reach Besishahar. At that time of the year, the road is passable by jeep past Manang (but it made the bumps from the day before pale in insignificance).



On April 18, we trekked to Tilicho Lake (the locals call it the highest lake in the world), which was completely ice covered. From there, we had a great view of Tilicho Peak, and admitted it was quite impressive, dominating the skyline northwest.

The next day, we left the comfort of the lodge and set out to reach the far end of the lake to establish our true basecamp for the next 10 to 12 days. But we’d underestimated how hard it was to trek in Nepal: it took a lot of effort to cross the 5340m Tilicho Pass in worsening weather with our heavy packs. After an 8-hour hike, we reached a fine spot close to the foot of our objective. We had huge respect for our porters who’d crossed the pass with heavier loads.



We spent April 20 resting and organizing basecamp, and the next day, we finally headed out to climb. The steep scree and snow slopes led to the first broken, rocky pillar, which we climbed quickly without touching the old, faded and unreliable fixed rope (indicating that this line had been followed by previous teams). We reached the ridge that was our goal for the day, and then set about finding a spot to establish camp. Climbing down about 80m on the other side of the ridge, we found a comfortable and safe site on top of a line of seracs (ice cliffs).



When we reached the windy crest, we quickly realized this was an inhospitable place to set up our second camp. Luckily, Adam found a canyon created by an old crevasse in the seracs. It seemed we couldn’t have asked for a better end to a good day, but at night, the wind shifted and our crevasse became a wind tunnel. We battled incoming snow in our prototype high-altitude tents, and our bodies suffered from the first night at 6150m. After sleepless hours and having accomplished our goal of acclimatization, we decided to descend.

Climbing down such steep terrain isn’t easy, and the safest option was a series of long rappels. We made good use of the pitons abandoned by previous expeditions that Louis had thoughtfully collected during the climb. Adam navigated the complex terrain and efficiently set up fresh anchors and we progressed quickly. We reached basecamp safe but tired, just in time for a late lunch. Sleep came easily. The next few days, we spent time in our newly installed mess tent that doubled as a perfect place to play chess.



## too optimistic
On April 27, we headed out again up Tilicho Peak to continue our acclimatization. About 9 hours later, we reached our wind-tunnel crevasse; most of us had a bad night and we postponed pushing further until the next day. We woke up at 2am, but the wind was even stronger and wasn’t relenting. Finally, at 6am, we reluctantly decided to begin the descent to basecamp, and were happy to reach it a few hours later.



For the next few days, heavy snow fell repeatedly and left about a metre of snow on the ground at basecamp. We spent the time resting and digging out our tents. At this point, we had to admit that our plan for a quick acclimatization on Tilicho Peak was proving to be too optimistic. Louis also had less time to complete the expedition than the rest of the team, and on May 3, he had to make the difficult decision to return home to Canada.

## The team continues on
After Louis left, the weather allowed the remaining team members to head straight on upwards, moving together over soft, deep snow patches and hard neve, over crevasses, through rock bands and around seracs to reach the summit of Tilicho. Satisfied with this fine, 7134m peak, the three of us – Adam, Rick and Felix – snapped some photos and saw our next destination: the northwest face of Annapurna.



We were sharing the open slopes above the north Annapurna glacier with small Italian, Spanish and Chilean teams who were all on the mountain, pushing for the summit via the 1950 French route. This period of low wind enabled the established teams to complete their ascents while the new arrivals could only look at the longer term forecast of strong summit winds (90kph) in frustration. When the successful pairs descended, their tales of avalanche risk and serac collapse confirmed the dangers associated with the classic route, and re-affirmed our team’s choice of Tilicho Peak for acclimatization.

The Annapurna line that we’d chosen beckoned: it was extremely challenging yet feasible. Acclimatized and ready to go, we hoped that mother nature would be kind to us and that the violent winds would die down before monsoon season began.



## 3 days, 2 sleepless nights
The team was waiting for a 3-day weather-window of low wind at 8000m, combined with little to no precipitation, to tackle the climb. As time passed, we realized this wasn’t going to happen. So we lowered our expectations and took advantage of a single day of low wind followed by a day of high snowfall. We set out on May 17 for a pure alpine-style attempt on the northwest face of Annapurna.

Our chosen route took us to the edge of the glacial lakes at the foot of the north Annapurna glacier (200m below our base camp at 4100m). From there, we slowly climbed over boulder-strewn terrain toward the moraines below our face. The glacier was extremely fractured and we toiled over alternating rocky ridges and abruptly icy slopes separating deep fissures of crevasses before we reached a snowy glacier in late afternoon. We pitched our tent on a flat spot at about 5000m and enjoyed the last few rays of the evening sun.



The next morning, after an hour’s walk, we arrived at the base of a huge triangular buttress and an icy couloir that ran up its right side. We crossed the bergschrund (major crevasse) which separated from the glacier face and began to climb.

The couloir started as a snow slope, but increasingly hard icy streaks predominated at an average of 55°. It was long – longer than we’d estimated – and afternoon snow showers didn’t help the situation.

There was no break in the angle to provide any relief for a bivouac site, so we cut a ledge in the ice at the foot of a rock wall where we could secure the rope. Torrents of spindrift poured intermittently down the wall. We were alert to the possibility that a full avalanche may develop.



At sunset, the snow relented and we had a glimpse of the sun and eastern flanks of Dhaulagiri. Finally, we had enough of a ledge for half a tent and we sat in a row, belayed inside our tent fabric with a single pole keeping it off our faces and our legs hanging free. We cooked a simple meal, brewed many hot drinks and lapsed into fitful rest. Through a tiny vent, we watched a clear, starlit night over the central Nepal Himalayas.

Getting moving in the morning was slow. We melted more snow for hot drinks, carefully unwound the safety lines that attached everything to the wall, and packed up. The icy slope angled right from the top of the couloir and we roped up; one climber led and placed ice screws as the other two followed simultaneously.

A mostly sleepless night, the efforts of the 2 previous days, and the brittle, thin ice over the rock made progress slower than before. Snow started falling again and at the end of the day we were in a place where there was nowhere to set up our tent.



Descending spindrift clouds added urgency to our search for a place to bivouac. An hour before dark, we tried to make something of a rock ledge at 6500m. It sloped alarmingly and gathered so much snow that we ended up hanging in our harnesses from our belay points, shrouded in tent fabric. There was no way to take off our boots to slip on dry socks or change into warmer clothes.

It took a lot of effort, but Felix did manage to melt some snow so everyone could have a little bit to drink. The previous night’s bivouac seemed like luxury compared to this one. We spent most of the night shivering and constantly disturbed each other as we shifted positions to mix up the pressure points from our harnesses.

When one careless movement created a rip in the tent (not designed to be hung like this) we suddenly had a new view of the world… through the hole in floor to the glacier far below. If that wasn’t enough, we lost a sleeping mat to the abyss overnight, and in the morning a sleeping bag slipped through the cellar door and disappeared as well.



In the morning, we seriously evaluated the situation and considered whether we should go on or turn back. On the one hand, we’d climbed half of the northwest face, had confidence we could handle technical difficulties, and had ample food and gas. On the other hand, the incessant afternoon snowfall was alarming, our progress had slowed and after 2 sleepless nights, we weren’t going to get any faster.

From here onwards, retreat would become much more serious and breaking through to the summit ridge would require full commitment. When you added on the loss of one member’s sleeping bag, it all tilted the decision firmly in favour of descent.



Nine hours, 20 rappels on Abalakov ice belays and several pitches of down-climbing later, we were back on the glacier, relieved and glad to pitch our wounded tent on flat snow. We cooked up our first meal in 2 days, and listened to the sound of powder snow avalanches pouring down the face, which confirmed our decision to descend. Another full day took us back down the glacier and its moraines to the welcoming tents of basecamp.

As we toiled back up from the glacial lakes, evening sleet continued to fall and it became clear that the weather window we’d needed to climb the northwest face of Annapurna never materialized.

*The decision-making on this kind of enterprise is crucial and most of us would say we would only contemplate seeking a route with someone we have climbed with extensively. Adam, Felix, Rick and Louis had never climbed together before but would gladly do so again. That is one measure of success.*

## Essentials Louis used on this expedition:


- [MEC Synergy Jacket](/en/product/6011-164/synergy-gore-tex-jacket)
- MEC Synergy Pants
- [MEC Talon -10 Down Sleeping Bag](/en/product/6005-007/talon--10c-down-sleeping-bag)
- MEC Light Obsession Hoodie (“It’s the best,” according to Louis.)
- [MEC Merino T1 Short Sleeve Crew](/en/product/6019-341/t1-merino-baselayer-short-sleeve-top)
- MEC Alpinelite 42 Backpack
- [MEC Reactor Sleeping Pad](en/product/6020-219/reactor-4-sleeping-pad-regular)



*Top photo:**Last vertical section before Tilicho Peak. Photo: Felix Berg*

## Related articles
- [Record-setting climb: Naomi Prohaska’s Mount Logan Sumit](/en/article/record-setting-climb-naomi-prohaskas-mount-logan-summit)
- [Who bolted that awesome line?](/en/article/escalade-le-travail-dans-lombre-des-ouvreurs-equipeurs)
- [About climbing ropes](/en/explore/about-climbing-ropes)



When it comes to 8000m mountains, things don’t always go as planned. Watch the video and read the story of MEC Ambassador Louis Rousseau’s team expedition.

MEC Blog